HDMI to component video for wireless TX

Discussion in 'Video Assist & Video Accessories' started by Dan Coplan, Feb 7, 2013.

  1. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
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    You could certainly do that, although it will not tell you what the original problem was -- but that's a quick fix.
    You may want to be sure that the Canon is working correctly, by feeding the composite video out to a monitor before you connect it to the Stinger.

    Andy.
     
  2. Zach Beggs

    Zach Beggs Member

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    Even the AV doesn't work when connected directly to the stinger.

    Both HDMI and AV work on a television when the 5D is hooked up... which is good, yet frustrating o_O

    So in summary:

    HDMI to Freefly to Stinger: Bars and Tone with the text - "No Input Output NTSC"
    AV directly to Stinger: No Image
    AV to TV: image
    HDMI to TV: image

    It seems like the 5D doesn't know what to do with the stinger...
     
  3. Gary Haynes

    Gary Haynes Administrator
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    Do you have a composite or HDMI output from another device that you can try through the HDMI or direct to the stinger?

    Shoot some phot clearly showing the wiring setup please.
     
  4. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
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    Hmmm. The most puzzling is: AV directly to Stinger: No Image

    Given the camera is emitting composite video (which you have proven by hooking it up to a monitor), why is it not producing anything when connected to the Stinger? The Stinger is apparently working fine otherwise you wouldn't see the color bars.

    There's something that I'm not getting in this....sorry I can't be of more help....what you're seeing doesn't make sense. The 5D shouldn't care (or even "know") that it's connected to the Stinger...Does the Stinger power supply share a common ground with the signal from the 5D? (You can tell I'm getting desperate....)

    Andy.
     
  5. Zach Beggs

    Zach Beggs Member

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    Let me run to walmart real quick, I'll take pictures of wiring and try Gary's idea real quick. I have a few things I can hook up.

    The black wire closest to the red wire is connected to the tilt radian (which eventually leads to the roll radian, then pan radian) then a BEC, to a Y connector, meeting a dean connected 3 cell lipo.

    The black wire closest to the white wire is going to ground and video on the stinger side. Stinger is grounded and powered through the Y cable leading to the 3 cell lipo.

    I'll post pictures in about 30 minutes or so.

    Thanks for all your help!!
     
  6. Zach Beggs

    Zach Beggs Member

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    Problem Solved (see below):
    For those just picking up here, or just starting your 3-Axis Gimbal and need help wiring, this will help you along:

    GIMBAL TIPS:

    TIP#1) I used a mondo stinger, which I found out later that the 5.8ghz band is nearly a good as the 1.2ghz band. I recommend getting the other transmitter and receiver from QC, it's a couple hundred dollars cheaper and it's better... so I've been told
    TIP#2) You should get the custom JST cable that QC sells. It'll make life a lot easier...
    TIP#3) Be aware that you will need a few Dean connectors, it sucks planning your wiring setup and realizing radio shack and no one near you carries a dean connector. Also, when you solder them, use a 3rd hand or you'll literally burn your fingers really bad. Get some wiring too.
    TIP#4) Quadrocopter Crimping tool and JST connectors are going to help with the HDMI converter
    TIP#5) It's highly recommended using a different brand radio from your piloting radio. It's also highly recommended flying with the MX-20 radio because it feeds MK telemetry and you will really want that. Compass readings, temperatures (extremely important), altitude, there's even a chick built in that talks to you! o_O I'm using a spektrum DX8 for my gimbal. NOTE: I purchased the AR8000 thinking that was the receiver and therefore I can bind to that -- I was wrong. The AR8000 comes with a loop cable that you plug into the bind/first pin. You NEED the DSMX satellite, because that's what the DX8 is binding to. The AR8000 from what I understand is just the vehicle to bind the DX8 to the actual satellite. The satellite is all you will need to put on to your gimbal and will plug directly into your radian.
    TIP#6) Use a cloverleaf for your antennas. They work much better.

    WIRING SETUP:

    Prelude: The 3-axis gimbal comes with a castle BEC which you'll want to solder to a dean connector. Either make your own Y connector, but you'll need seperate leads to the BEC and seperate leads to your mondo stinger. If you're using a 1.2ghz I believe it's 5 volts *check*. That'll directly plug into any port on your radian. You'll want to tethering all the radians together so the entire system is daisy chained. The BEC is designed to regulate power within a range, a 5volt range the radians need. My mondo stinger needs a higher voltage so that's why it's being soldered separately.​
    1) Solder BEC to Dean
    2) Solder custom QC cable, the red and black to the same dean (use a Y cable, make your own JST, whatever you choose just draw power form the single battery with both your BEC and your custom QC cable.
    3) Follow this guide in hooking up your BEC to your radians.
    4) Now that all your radians are receiving power from your BEC, make a JST connection for your Freefly HDMI converter. The converter comes with a 4-wire cable. Take the red wire and the closest black wire, crimp with Quadrocopter's crimping tool (you can't get this tool at home depot -- confirmed...)
    TIP: here's a video how to crimp those suckers. I recommend watching Andy's Really Good Guide on Quadrocopter, if you don't have the DVD, here's a video I found on youtube.​
    5) Conenct that new connector in any two pins on the final radian (your tilt radian). Note: black wire on the right hand side. Red on the center pin.
    6) 2 pins left on your HDMI converter, crimp or solder, somehow connect those two wires (white your video lead, black is your ground) to the custom QC cable. Connect white to yellow. Black to black. The rest of those wires are trash (white and orange) - one of them is audio.
    7) Inside your QC box comes a 6 pin cable that really only has 3 wires, but plug that into the USB module and into your computer. Troubleshoot software issues. The software is here. You will need to go into your device manage (windows) and once you plug your USB into your computer, you'll need to change the port by clicking the USB and look for preferences, or 'advanced'. Look for a dialog that will allow you to change the COMM Port to 10
    8) Update radians by plugging that 6 pin JST into each radian and by using the software.
    9) Program each radian as the manual shows.

    FPV ISSUES:
    I'm using a Canon 5D Mark 3 and after an entire day of trouble-shooting, here are common errors...

    TROUBLESHOOT: TRANSMITTER or HDMI Converter?
    Tx Rx BAD: on your receiving end, if the video feed you see is static, you are either on the wrong channel or you have a wiring issue, something is wrong with your Tx and Rx connection.
    Tx Rx GOOD: static goes to a solid black screen (occasional radio static is okay)

    HDMI Converter GOOD: colored bars as your image
    HDMI Converter BAD: black image

    My 5DM3 Issues SOLVED
    Thanks to Gary, Andy and Josh L. for helping me on this one. Here are common errors if you still have colored bars while your whole rig is powered up.​
    1) Are you in live view mode (video mode) on your DSLR?
    *Note: You shouldn't have to change anything to get a HDMI output stream with the latest canon firmware.​
    2) Check your DSLR with a television (HDMI-->HDMI-mini)
    3) Check your native-AV output on your DLSR to TV
    4) Take the HDMI converter and plug it into your DVR, Xbox, whatever. Transmit that signal with a different calbe than the one FF/QC sold you.

    My Solution: My HDMI converter from Quadrocopter is good, the cable they bundled with mine defective.

    Hope this helps any new-comers putting their 3-axis gimbal together, or preparing for a order on Quadrocopter. I might write an extended version of one of these for the CS8 build. What should have been a couple orders on QC has been 10s... and weeks of waiting for shipments, little things like a special crimping tool that prevented me from continuing my build... Good luck and hope this will ease any of your FPV questions.

    Zach
     
  7. Zach Beggs

    Zach Beggs Member

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    As I was temporary testing the AV from the Canon to the stinger, I connected just the yellow to yellow, no ground. Apparently the little black wire/ground is somewhat "important"... who knew right?

    ... You probably did :p
     
  8. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
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    Yeah...the "not having a common ground" is a problem that I've seen before. Not that *I* have ever done that, you understand.
    Well, not this week.... :rolleyes:

    Andy
     
  9. Kyriacos Mosfiliotis

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    Hey Dan...That is a very smart idea. I have a Canon 5D Mark ||| and i'm looking to set up a wireless TX/RX system for my clients. I found this system as well. Any idea if this works on my canon. http://www.thanksbuyer.com/image/cache/data/sku-26979-2-600x600.jpg
     
  10. Dan Coplan

    Dan Coplan Member

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    I have no idea if that would work on your camera or not but it looks like that's exactly what it's meant to do and it's a lot sleeker than my solution. I suppose your best bet is to contact the vendor and ask or just order one and try it out and make sure you can return it if it doesn't. One thing you'll have to match up is the HDMI connector since there are, to my knowledge, three different sizes: standard, mini, and micro.

    A colleague of mine has this which appears to be similar in nature...

    http://www.overskyrc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=55&products_id=479
     
  11. Dave King

    Dave King Well-Known Member

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    Very cool do you have a larger picture here so I can see the 5V connection?

    conva.jpg
     
  12. Howard Dapp

    Howard Dapp Active Member

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    Dave, That post is almost a year old so I doubt I would still have the original images. Just follow the mini usb pin-out photo then find the best and easiset location to solder on your power wires. In my case I used a servo lead which plugs into a free port in the gimbal's RX.

    image.jpg
     
  13. Dave King

    Dave King Well-Known Member

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    thanks that chart is very helpful.
     
    Howard Dapp likes this.
  14. Dave King

    Dave King Well-Known Member

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    Thanks again Howard for the tip on the Amazon HDMI converter. The one I got was a little different than yours and it needed external power for the scarlet but your pin outs did the trick.
     
  15. Dave King

    Dave King Well-Known Member

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    Ops. Wrong thread. Erased.
     

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