HDMI to component video for wireless TX

Discussion in 'Video Assist & Video Accessories' started by Dan Coplan, Feb 7, 2013.

  1. Dan Coplan

    Dan Coplan Member

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    I came up with a solution for transmitting HDMI wirelessly and inexpensively. The reason I had to do this is because after trying the Paralinx Arrow, I was only getting a range of about 150 ft. before it totally cut out - not enough for APV. It's a bit Frankenstein, but hey, it works.

    Mini HDMI on camera side to standard HDMI cable. Standard HDMI to $30 HDMI to standard def AV video box - purchased on Amazon. Video RCA out to Immersion RC 5.8GHz 600mW transmitter. Voila! I thought I would have to power the transmitter and the converter box separately, but to my pleasant surprise, the HDMI cable coming out of the camera carried power to the box. I was otherwise prepared to run a small lipo to the hot and ground of a cigarette lighter-style USB charger for your car which converts 12-24V to 5V out for the converter.

    Option 2 for DSLR's is to simply use the AV out and run the RCA directly to the transmitter, bypassing the converter box. Since you're downconverting anyway, why bother with the extra box unless you need to for cameras without AV outs.

    Dan
     

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  2. Gary Haynes

    Gary Haynes Administrator
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    Dan, that's what I had but found that the battery life on the camera (NEX-7 at the time) got hammered. Ended up with the much smaller, lighter HDMI board from QC.
     
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  3. Ben Freedman

    Ben Freedman Member

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    I have that same Amazon.com box. SOOOOO much less expensive than the QC box... Didn't know you could power it from the HDMI port. I was just thinking about running a cable h one of the Radians to the box, since that's already 5V.

    I was also thinking about removing it all from the plastic box to save weight and size, but it's already soooo light!

    What do you think?

    Best,

    Ben
     
  4. Dan Coplan

    Dan Coplan Member

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    Gary,

    I looked at the QC HDMI board before trying my solution. Definitely a slimmer and more compact unit but you still need to feed it 5V power. I'm not sure if by feeding power to the converter box I got, it switches the power draw from HDMI to the power source but if so, there's your solution at about $90 less money and that priceless MacGyver feeling of accomplishment. I didn't show it in my last picture because I didn't think I needed to, but here's the power solution (see attached pic). The leads solder to the cigarette lighter charger very nicely. I just now realized that you need to complete a circuit (or something like that) between the two negative terminals, so quickly taped that long red lead in place, but will tidy that up when I get more time. Imagine the end of the USB cable going into and powering the converter box.

    Ben - interesting idea running power from a Radian to power the box. Please let us know if that works! Would love to eliminate any extra batteries. The trick there is figuring out how to wire a servo lead to the box. Or I suppose you could use my cigarette lighter trick to do that and you'd at least be getting rid of an extra battery.

    Speaking of batteries, I've been using lipos to power everything. They're great, but the whole process of making sure they don't discharge too low, draining them to storage charge, and not charging fully until ready for use in a few hours is a royal pain in the ass. Aside from lipos for the copter, which is a no-brainer, any thoughts on using different chemistries for various accessories?

    Dan
     

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  5. Gary Haynes

    Gary Haynes Administrator
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    Dan save some weight. Grab an old USB cable, lookup the pin to wire diagram on google, and cut of the full size USB end making your own power cable. That's what I did with mine before Tabb came out with his solution. I have seen photos on another forum where it was removed from the case, direct power pulled from the really tiny pins of the Mini USB connector thus reducing size and weight, but the full size of the box isn't that bad. Other thing is finding short, lightweight HDMI cables. Most are pretty long. And I never found something with a right angle connector. Many times to get a camera to balance laterally a regular straight in connector won't work. Again a tip of the hat to Tabb for finding/designing/making the right angle short HDMI cable.

    But if it works for ya then the box itself does what it needs to do. Flew fine for many months. And certainly much smaller than the first much much larger versions from a year ago.
     
  6. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
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    Dan: Are you really getting component video out? I think you may have meant composite video?

    Andy.
     
  7. Steve Maller

    Steve Maller UAV Grief Counselor

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    I would remind those on this thread that both the Canon 5D Mark III and Sony CX760V can natively output composite video with standard Canon and Sony cables. No HDMI conversion necessary. The Sony NEX cameras, however, do require conversion as they do not natively provide any composite video output.
     
  8. Dan Coplan

    Dan Coplan Member

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    Andy - thanks for the correction. I always get those two screwed up when thinking too fast.

    Gary - Will try clipping a USB end like you suggested. Was looking at that solution before I read your reply, imagining that the leads would be too tiny and frustrating to work with but I'll give it a shot. Spent a good amount of time online searching for something that was mini USB to power leads on the other end to make it easy.

    Regarding right angle HDMI connectors, check out http://www.kingofaccessories.com. They have both right angle adapters as well as right angle cables. Fry's may have these as well but I haven't checked with them yet.

    And just to add to the conversation, still figuring out what makes the most sense but at one point I was considering building a small distro board for the gimbal which would provide power from a single source for the Radians, HDMI converter box, and transmitter.

    Dan
     
  9. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
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    Not to worry....I have the same problem with NSTC, PLA, RBG and which side of the road to drive on. :)

    I did that with some "Veroboard" (aka Stripboard).

    Andy.
     
  10. Howard Dapp

    Howard Dapp Active Member

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    Been using the same $30 converter for about a month, works well, weighs only 38g.
    When used with a Sony FS100 it can run solely off of the HDMI 5v output. Doesn't work so well with the 5D3's HDMI 5v output...not enough juice, the converter flickers etc so I decided to install a 5v recom regulator to be powered separately by the gimbal's lipo. I also planned to strip away the white plastic housing and remove some components that I don't need such as the L/R audio output jacks.
    conv1.jpg

    With recom regulator ready to be soldered in.
    conv2.jpg

    with audio jack headers removed.
    conv3.jpg

    Desoldered the USB connector, located the 5v pos/neg pads then soldered on leads for 5v input power from the recom. Also soldered in a single video jack. I decided to keep the plastic housing..actually thought it was silly to discard it since it's good protection for the electronics and doesn't weigh much. Painted it black.
    conva.jpg

    Done. Weighs 40g with velcro patch and leads.

    conv6.jpg
    conv7.jpg
    conv8.jpg
     
  11. Howard Dapp

    Howard Dapp Active Member

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  12. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
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    Hi Howard:
    Do you have links for where you can purchase the items above?

    Thanks
    Andy
     
  13. Howard Dapp

    Howard Dapp Active Member

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    Hi Andy, I edited the above post by adding links to the items.
     
  14. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
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    Thanks, Howard. Much appreciated. Makes it easier for the folk to find/buy stuff. :)
    Andy.
     
  15. Zach Beggs

    Zach Beggs Member

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    HDMI Bars and Tone Picture: I'm using the QC HDMI converter on a 5DM3. The picture my converter is sending to the stinger is just bars and tone stating "no input". However, if I disconnect the HDMI converter, picture goes black. So the HDMI converter is working, it's just not giving me an input. Any ideas?

    Wiring: I've got a Y cable going from a 1200 3c QC battery to the stinger and through the radians. Out the last radian, the tilt radian, the HDMI converter is receiving a 5v signal.
     
  16. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
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    Can you connect the HDMI output from the 5DM3 to the HDMI input of a monitor and confirm that you're indeed getting HDMI from the the 5DM3?

    Andy.
     
  17. Zach Beggs

    Zach Beggs Member

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  18. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
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    What voltage are you providing to the Radians, Zach. I was re-reading your post and it looks like you're providing the direct LiPo voltage. Is that correct?

    Andy.
     
  19. Zach Beggs

    Zach Beggs Member

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  20. Zach Beggs

    Zach Beggs Member

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    I'm using the Mark 3, I think it has native AV out. Should I just cut the HDMI converter out and hook up the AV video to the stinger?
     

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