I've often wondered how much noise we're inflicting on our systems by not using completely shielded wire from the FPV box cameras out to the Mondo Stinger (for example). There's so much RF buzzing around the MK and other boards and I can't wondering whether it would be better to switch to RG59 co-ax for all video systems. @William: Any thoughts on this? I think you may be the electronics expert on the forum. Andy.
There's a thread on fpv labs about using cat 6 cable which has shielded pairs and that it helps a lot.
Thanks for the input guys. That's bad news really. I thought I'd be getting an accurate image to judge exactly what the camera sees. As a one man operation I don't have the luxure of a dedicated camera op. I already have a dedicated FPV camera I've been using, but it's not going to show me what the recording camera sees. It's a nicer one (50 bucks) but still pretty low rez. It's less about the money and more about the weight, otherwise I'd use a GoPro as my FPV cam. I can live with the NEX stretching if I can find what the noise is from. The nose is accompanied by the scan lines, but they are not fluctuating at all. It doesn't seem to be interference an outside source. It is exactly the same whether the unit is powered from a little lipo away from the quad, or powered from the quad lipo while attached to the quad, and doesn't change in flight. • What's the best powering method users are choosing? Are people powering the FF with a little 5v battery? Is it bad that I'm passing power through the FPV transmitter (it does provide a power out) through the power converter, and into the HDMI converter? • Tabb, what is a BEC? Thanks again. Chad
P.S. Can someone PM me a decent monitor to use that has a good price/quality ratio? Or post it here, as It applies to the subject I guess. Thanks
Easy answers first: 1. A BEC is a battery eliminator circuit. I did a Google search for you using the query: what is a BEC. The first hit is right on point: http://www.flyelectric.com/ans.bec.html -- in short it's a high current DC to DC converter. For 1A or less, such a converter is often referred to by the brand name: a Recom or a Traco. 2. I would power the HDMI convert directly from the battery and/or Traco/Recom converter at +5v. If you are passing the +5v through a transmitter, there is certainly the possibility of it adding noise to the +5v. 3. I'm confused by the notion that you're passing the power through your FPV transmitter -- which (according to the specs) takes 12v, and then through to the HDMI converter (which expects 5v) I would use a 3S battery such as a QC1200 mAH, feed that directly to the transmitter and also to the Traco. Make sure they share a common "ground" (black wire). Then feed the +5 from the Traco to the FF HDM converter so that it has clean power directly from the Traco. Hope this helps Andy.
Andy I'm using the Traco DC to DC converter suggested here and sold by Quadrocopter LLC. So that's how I'm taking the 12v down to 5v. So now I know what a BEC is, ss there a different power converter you suggest Tabb? Everything is properly grounded.
I recently got a Foxtech monitor that is great for FPV because it won't bluescreen when the signal gets bad, it shows static. It's cheap and works great outdoors in full sun. It works much better than my expensive HD production monitor for this purpose. They also have a 7" version that is cheaper, but not by much. http://www.fpvmodel.com/foxtech-m800-8-monitor_p264.html or http://www.foxtechfpv.com/foxtech-m800-8-monitor-p-644.html
Thanks. Keep the suggestions coming. I like the look of the Haier, but you have to tap the threads to make it fit US 1/4-20 tripods correct?And does the Haier have absolutely NO blue screen? I've heard it gets it at some point, but not easily. I've also heard that HD monitors don't always work so hot with a low-grade SD signal. I could use that SmallHD in my video production business though. A grand is a lot to drop at this time... I like the looks of that Foxtech. I'd like to wire up a 3 cell Lipo to power that for a long time, along with my receiver and Fatsharks.
The Small HD works fine with low-grade SD -- with the exception that it will blue-screen on loss of sync signal. Often I run the video through the pass through of a FPV digital video recorder which regenerates the sync pulses so it eliminates blue-screens. Also, even when I'm not using the DVR, I've not seen video dropouts since I switched away from whip antennae over to Bluebeam cloverleafs. Andy.
I use cloverleafs too, but I still get static from time to time. Can the Haier handle heavy static or even full loss of signal?
There's this too about the Haier, though I still like it's size and internal battery. You can appaerntly get extra batteries for it. You have to tap the threads for tripod mounting.
Good question—I have not had heavy static nor loss of signal so I'm afraid I can't tell you. Perhaps somebody else on the form has had that experience? Andy
It doesn't have a battery. I power it from a 4000 mah 3s lipo that also power the rx. It pretty much lasts all day. I think the specs said like 15 watts maybe?
Hello all. I was wondering if the problems with this device have been sorted out. I purchased one for my new Cinestar 8 and get a message that has reappeared multiple times in this thread. All is hooked up properly but I have no video signal. It says: No Signal In NSTC out This message is overlaid on a screen with color bars about an inch wide vertically across the screen. Can anyone help?
Can you confirm (by using an HDMI monitor) that you're sure you've got a good HDMI signal going into the HDMI converter -- sorry to ask the obvious, and I did see that you say everything is hooked up properly -- it's just that on more than one occasion I've seen the situation where you get this message displayed because there really is no signal in! Thanks Andy.
HI Dog Sock, if you are getting the color bars that means the HDMI is outputting a signal. I would confirm that you are getting a viable signal into the HDMI now. Best, Tabb
Thanks for the replies Andy. I went out and purchased a mini HDMI to regular and ran my D90 through a monitor with no issue. I did the same with the 5D that I'm hoping to use on my CS8. I still get this screen on both my FPV monitor and Fatshark goggles. Any suggestions on how to proceed?