Thanks for the Data Sheet Andy! I'm NTSC so that's good to know. But for the rest, Dang.... It just went over my head. I think with the help of my soldiering buddy we can hopefully figure it out. I'm also wondering what (on the HDMI converter) the 2 pins with the white plastic bit is for, and if I use that for anything.
The little black bit pushes over the two pins by the little white bit an short circuits them together to make the HDMI converter run on the PAL standard. Andy.
Hi Andy I'm not thinking it's the board. This is my second board and the situation is the same. As I mentioned I have no problems when I use a box camera. Here's a picture: -Colin
Hmm. Well, that eliminates the SOSD board by itself. Logic then says either (a) it's the HDMI converter or (b) it's an interaction between the HDMI convert and the SOSD board, or (c) it's the camera or (d) it's the camera interacting with the HDMI board interacting with the SOSD board. I feel like the archetypical consultant who just borrowed your watch to tell you the time! Andy.
Hi Andy Take a look at this. By moving the one Radian, Transmitter, and HDMI board to be source powered by a single QC1200 this is the HDMI converted CX760 camera image I now get: Compare this to the image above. Got an explination for the dfference? Power was: Main (6200MAH 14.8V) stepped down to DC 12V 1.0A (TSR1-24120) and then -> a) Tx, b) TSR1-2450 > HDMI. Plus Main -> Castel BEC -> Radian. Power now: QC1200 and then -> a) Tx, b) Traco TSR1-2450 -> HDMI, c) Catle BEC -> Radian. I can put Castle BEC back on main power if it's too much for QC1200. Let me know your thoughts. At any rate your recommendation about separate power was a good in at least this regard. I just now need to test what the added weight does to flight time. Cheers - Colin
Hi Colin: Yeah -- the system you had before was introducing electrical noise into the video signal that was causing the horizontal spikes. The system you have now, with the separate QC1200 you now have clean DC power without the noise.... Just a guess.... But it looks like you cracked it! Andy.
Hey Guys, So I finally got my FF HDMI converter soldiered to the Tracko Power converter, ant wired into my FPV transmitter: http://www.dronesvision.com/5-8ghz-500mw-wireless-av-transmitter/ I'm using my Sony NEX-5n camera to send the HDMI signal to the FF. I'm using Fat Shark goggles. The issue I'm having now is that I do get a signal in my goggles, but it's stretched, and a little off center - cutting off the left edge of my image. Also the signal has scan lines through it, degrading the image a bit. It was so clean using my GoPro! Anyway, I'll attach some photos of twhat I see in my Fat Sharks. I'm trying to find something that I can stretch out the image off the camera so it looks right. The GoPro would give me a nice letter box with the 16x9 image siting nicely in the center of the 4x3 SD goggles. With the FF I'm getting the whole camera display stretched to fit. Can we change settings in the FatSharks? I've poked around and found nothing so far. At this point I like the image iff my 50.00 FPV camera better, but I need to see what the camera sees for perfect framing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I was so excited when I was hooking everything up, now I have a headache. LOL(not)!
The image being shifted to the left slightly seems to be caused by the Freefly HDMI converter, as I get the same thing when I attach the HDMI cable to my GoPro Hero2. This doesn't happen when I go out of the AV of the Hero2, and bypass the HDMI converter. Does anyone have any info?
Hi Chad: Sorry, I don't have any info. Irritating problem though. It's more a question for Tabb, I'm afraid. He checks the forum pretty frequently. Andy.
Thanks Andy. Hopefully Tabb has some insight. I just took a flight, and it was doable, but not a pleasure at all. The stretched image could work if there wasn't the added issue of the degraded image (scan lines) and the whole thing being off to the left, cutting off the end. I'm really hoping I don't have to go back to a GoPro as my FPV camera. The Heero3 is cool, but it ain't no NEX-5n.
@Chad: Do you by chance have access to an HDMI monitor or TV? I was wondering whether you could try the output of the HDMI that you're feeding into the Fatshark is something you could test? It's just a case of working through the system one step at a time. Andy.
I'll see if my buddie's small monitor takes a mini HDMI. But that's an HD monitor, so it probably won't stretch the image. It would tell me if the signal has the lines and is offset though.
Ooops. I wasn't thinking clearly. Let me try that again: Can you test the composite video coming out of the HDMI converter by feeding that into a Monitor or TV. Just curious to see if the video is shifted coming out the HDMI converter. Sorry about that Chad..... Andy.
Andy, I don't have anything to connect from the HDMI converter to a monitor without bothering the guy I just bothered to re-soldier for the test, then soldier yet again to go into my FPV transmitter. I did test the camera's HDMI output today on an HDMI input field monitor, and it is nice and clean. And as I said, with the FatSharks the image from the FF is stretched to fit 4x3 (standard def goggles) whether I'm going out of the NEX or the GoPro. So the only thing that can be responsible for the grainy & stretched image is the Freefly HDMI converter. Are there any Freefly employees that can comment on my original post? It would see a no brainer to be able to view an HD signal on an SD monitor using letterboxing to preserve the 16x9 aspect ratio of the camera's output. Questions: • Does everyone that uses this get a stretched image in their goggles? • Is there a different FPV transmitter/receiver that can make sure I get a letterboxed image in my goggles? • Is there a switch on the FF converter, possibly under the heat shrink that allows one to switch output from 16x9 to 4x3? I could really use some help please. At this point I'm not seeing why I shouldn't have just ordered one of these: http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Univer...11833&sr=8-10&keywords=ntsc+to+hdmi+converter Thanks
Understood. You don't want to overstay your welcome with the guy with soldering iron -- you may need his help in the future! I does sound like you've done all you can do to eliminate other causes. Tabb monitors the forum pretty closely so doubtless he'll respond when he can. 1. I don't know who else is using FatSharks, but if there are other folk, I'm sure they'll respond. 2. Sorry. Don't know the answer to that either. 3. I don't think there is such a switch. I've got one of those HDMI converters and it seems to work as a useful backup. Bit bulkier, but not too heavy. Andy.
Chad your Sony output looks just like mine for an NEX7 just a bit chopped off. As to the clarity issue try running the HDMI, FPV cam and transmitter solely with isolated power. I was really surprised how much junk gets picked up having anything else connected. Also if you can find a buddy with a different transmitter see if that helps. Maybe an Iftron. Lastly how is the separation between your tx antenna and the rest of the components?
Hi Chad, Sorry for the delay...I was out on a shoot and just now got caught up and back in the office. On my HDMI it looks like I might lose a tiny tiny bit on the edges but I think the NEX5 is actually cutting that off on the output as I don't seem to lose any pixels on the 5D HDMI output. As for noise etc I would guess that this is noise in the system. Trouble shoot piece by piece by supplying isolated power to each component to see if you can track down the issue. Switching BEC's can sometimes produce a tremendous amount of noise that can really mess up the FPV equipment. View of NEX5 View from HDMI converter
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. I had this same issue with the GH2 and goggles. Not gonna happen. The camera will only output a 16x9 signal and because of that everything down the line will be squeezed into 4:3. There is no switch on any hdmi converter that I have seen. If you can add a video scaler between your Video Rx and goggles, then you can letterbox it. They are expensive and of course you lose the all-in-one feature of the fatsharks/ rx. EDIT- I see you don't have the V Rx in the goggles, so a scaler wouldn't kill that. To answer your questions: Yes. No. No. My suggestion is to use a monitor that is 4:3/ 16:9 switchable and use a nice hood. It's not as immersive as goggles, but it has other advantages. My second suggestion would be to use a dedicated FPV cam and an RC switch that you can switch between the NEX and the FPV, just to check status. FPV cams offer a much better view to fly by IMO. Lastly, I suspect that the FF HDMI converter is the same board as in your link. They have just de-cased it and soldered on RC connections. Hope this helps.