I've had a few PMs asking about my personal setup with the 5D3. To respond, I thought I'd start a new post in case others may have questions. Mine may not be the cleanest setup, but it works for me and is continuously changing. Front view showing the adjustable tilt arms and camera slider plate mods. Battery mount location for one QC1200. I just velcro it to a wood plate I made. Power wiring is internal to the booms along with the BEC to power the Radians. Also you can see the doubled up CS8 mounting plate. I haven't tested it yet, hopefully today if it stops raining. I was using black O rings on the vibration isolators. May experiment with the blue rings now that I've doubled the plate. A few things going on here. I have extended side booms as well as an extended vertical boom for better clearance. Also you may notice the extra carbon on the connection of the side booms to the main rear boom. I did this mod out of what I had laying around and never changed it because it works. I had 4 extra motor mounts laying around and used those to stiffen the connection and keep the booms from rotating. There are other parts available now to use here. (better photo at the bottom) I recently added a second battery solely for the 5.8 video downlink. It gets velcro'd to the rear facing boom. I was getting terrible reception running it off the main power. Another view of my motor mount mod.
Just noticed some of the files got attached. Im also going to try to add foam or make an adjustable lens mount to get another point of contact from the lens to the front of the camera slider plate.
Thanks for all the detail. What did you change about the camera slider plate? Looks just like the new adjustable plate from FF. And what's the material you're using to wrap the servo wiring?
Its just the new slider plate from FF. For servo wiring its Expandable Mesh Sleeving from McMaster-Carr
Great detail and advice Brad. Thanks much. I'm really interested in the separate power for the 5.8 video. What are you using there and really, how much of a difference did it make isolating it from radio, radian and servos?
Mike, it's just another QC1200. I have 7 or 8 so it was just another case of what I had laying around and yes it seems to be much better. I was only getting 100-150 ft even with bluebeams.
Thanks Brad. I used a 3200 midpoint on the center of the gimbal (balanced) to power it all. I'll give a dedicated 1200 (I have a bunch too) and see how it goes. I'll use the bluebeams as well. Hows your distance (and image quality/reliability) now? I've almost given up on the 5.8 but I'll give this a try. Thanks. I learn something from this Forum every day. -m
Thanks Brad for the details of the mod. What a waste of motor mounts though Did you consider those? http://www.quadrocopter.com/Top-Boom-Connector_p_810.html they have double clamps on one end. Bill
As I said, I had the extra motor mounts. I didn't have extras of those laying around or I would have used them
thank you very much for your detailed report, brad! that helps a lot! I'll buy some longer side booms and the adjustable camera mount... For me it would make a lot of sense to have something there to have a second point were the lens makes contact with the camera mount. Just to make it more rigid, since the screw is so far back it can swing a little. I can really see that when you tap camera... I'll also try to make that a bit better. thanks again for your photos and report!
Brad, I've mounted the MarkIII once before on my stock 360 gimbal. It was a friends camera and I haven't seen the footage from it, however, I believe everything went well on the gimbal stock. If you were to recommend one upgrade to better accommodate the Mark II and III, what would it be? Thanks!
I think having a slightly longer downtube would be a good start as well as the doubled star plate. The longer tube just gives your camera op a little more padding from getting booms in the shot. Doubled plate does get rid of some vibration depending on ring stiffness. I would try different sets and compare your results.
Thanks Brad. What length down tube do you recommend? You'd purchase that prior to the extended side booms or the adjustable tilt bar?
Hey Mike, I wouldn't give up on the 5.8 ghz yet, I use a single Thunder Power 2250mah pack that runs my FPV and gimbal, like yours, its balanced on the top horizontal gimbal spar. I installed one of these http://www.dpcav.com/xcart/Power-Supply-Filter-L-C-Type.html (recommended by another FF member) and I have had great results. I have had a degraded picture at around 300m (about as far as i've ever flown) but never lost a signal completely. I wouldn't say you would want to watch a movie on my monitor with the quality of picture that I get but it is more than adequate to get a good representation of what the camera is seeing. I was actually considering switching to two seperate batteries to see if the picture quality improved. Good luck, Nick
Both, smaller cameras not so much but bigger cameras for sure. With mine with the NEX5 I used the standard bars. But with the Canon XF100 and the D6 I had to use the adjustable bars to find the center of gravity. Bill