Bennet welcome to the forums. Would you be kind enough to change your user name to your real first name and last name, please? The reasons for this (and how to do it) are explained here: http://forum.freeflysystems.com/index.php?threads/real-names.497/.
This thread has gone very quiet! I've just started with a GH4, and am trying to get a liveview feed to the ground using a Immersion 5.8GHz TX. I've tried 2 slightly different Amazon white box HDMI2AV convertors; neither worked live with the GH4 (one does work on Playback only). Tried every possible camera setting, and have powered and unpowered the HDMI boxes. Can anyone recommend a convertor, preferably supplied in UK, that is guaranteed to work?
I have been using the Red Converter with a GH4 for several months now and it hasn't been a problem. http://www.ebay.com/itm/22137611632...:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649#ht_0wt_0
Paul, The Black version of the HDMI2AV convertor works with PAL ok and it's black so looks better too! The white one used to work for me too but not anymore for some reason.... Pete
Hi team, We are using the kopterworx hdmi converter link: http://kopterworx.com/zenmuse-gh4-hdmi-to-av-converter-mini-micro-hdmi-thin-soft-cable.html we are having massive problems with it. We have carried out tests on the camera and cable and both work just fine to a TV. the camera is set up correctly using all the settings that many other users from this forum use. We have tried both powered and UN-powered setups and cant get any picture. Our screen works on a different setup flawlessly. On the bench we have tried: We are using a RCA cable into the monitor with the HDMI connected to the RCA cable. From the HDMi we are using the supplied thin cable into the camera. We have tried powering on the camera after the screen and the other way around. Neither works. We get a flicker of a signal (snowing) and then it blue screens. On the machine - we get video transmission from the machine through the miniOSD to the monitor no issues but we get blue screen to the monitor with the camera plugged in. If we isolate the OSD out we still only get a blue screen We bought two of these units and neither is working for us. Can anyone shed some light or video signal preferably on this matter. Cheers
I just received a reply from Kopterworxs about this problem and thought I should give you all an update. This also adds as a warning when using the Kopterworxs HDMI Converters as they didn't have anything on their web site when I purchased 2 of these from them. Kopterworxs don't make any mention of these burning problems on their test videos either so just be very careful about how you make connection to the HDMI. Please read message below from Kopterworxs. Hello. For gh4 you dont need external supply. But if you powered the gh4 before the immersion was on you could burn the camera or the hdmi converter. If you did not buy the immersion version and you did not supply it with 5v but more then the hdmi converted is dead. If you used and baught the immersion version then you have the correct voltage and it should be working. Again if the camera was turned on before the immersion had power then you could have burned the converter. Check page for information. And please set the gh4 to 1080 downscale. And select pal on hdmi converter.
I just successfully mod'd another one of the $10 cheapo Amazon converters to work with my GH4. Here it is working just fine.
Thanks for posting this Steve, did you have to put 5v power to it or does it run from the cameras battery. Do you have to switch the hdmi plug on first then the camera.? What modifications did you do to this to make it work.
I tried both the 5D Mark III and the GH4, and neither seems to provide power through the HDMI port, so yes, I have to provide 5V through the USB. I tried to figure out if I could get 5V directly on to the board somewhere, but I'm more of a software guy than a hardware guy. As for the boot-up sequence, I'm not sure I tried every combination, but it just worked. I also wired it to the 1.3gHz video transmitter, and that worked just fine.
BTW, here's the link to the ones I bought. The physical case keeps changing a little, and the board definitely has a slightly different layout than another one I have here. http://amzn.com/B009CL8NH0
Dear Gh4 shooters, I started a crowdfunding project. everyone who donates €2,50 will recieve the original M31 LUT. I'm really trying to get some money for a project I'm doing for a childrens hospital in the Netherlands called "Sophia Kinderziekenhuis". I' hope you all want to help me out with this project and support us by donating. The M31 LUT is an amazing plugin which is perfect in combination with the cinelike D profile on the Gh4. You can donate at the link below http://.streetwisevisuals.weebly.com Thank you so much. Best regards, Jordi Streetwise Visuals
Jordi would you be kind enough to change your user name to your real first name and last name, please? The reasons for this (and how to do it) are explained here: http://forum.freeflysystems.com/index.php?threads/real-names.497/. You can put your company name in the signature line. Thanks
I found the issue was with the hdmi cable not providing power. I tried three different ones. Hyperthin is working for my amazon white box converter and gh4.
Which cheap (white or black) converter from Ebay works with Gh4? I've bought at least five of them in the last two years and they were all working. Now I've bought from the same store and they don't work anymore. Just received one today. On the bottom it says: UP Scaler 1080p HDMI2AV. Never seen this one before....
Sounds like you got the wrong one. Upscale usually takes standard video and scales it up to 1080. You want a downscale, 1080 down to composite video.
As I am reading you say that this one works without the modification? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009CL8NH0/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
That's the type that you want HDMI to Composite/AV. But as you have found out while the outside plastic boxes look identical sometimes the interior board is different. I've had probably a half dozen of these. Some worked great and were easy to put a direct 5V connection on, some didn't need power at all and a couple, unless I did micro soldering needed a mini usb connection (cut to expose the wires). If you want to save weight take the board out of the box and carefully remove the row of RCA jacks and add your own connector. I've used simple JST connectors with servo wire from the camera/box to the TX. Tried shielded and didn't see any difference.