I tend to use test--n-plug-n-play versus shrug-n-pray, Ben. You will need a crimping tool for the JST connectors, though Leon. Alternatively, if you don't want to mess around with making up your own cable, you might find it more convenient to use these (and the price is not astronomical): http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9683 (Female) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...t_battery_pigtail_10cm_length_10pcs_bag_.html With a sharp pointy thingy (I used a dental explorer -- my dental hygienist is still wondering how it disappeared) on the male connector, you can push down on a metal barb on the crimped connectors and retract them and re-insert them swapped over so the red wire will still be the positive one. (It's the one that has the smoke in it.) You will still need some heat shrink where you solder the wires together, though. (Note to self: Put the heat shrink on the wires before you solder them together, Andy.) Hope this helps. Andy.
Touche. I've made a few cables so far without the special crimper. A tiny needlenose and some solder have been ok. The crimper is certainly better. Blasphemy. There's no better way to hone your soldering skills than to solder everything twice.
There are some real good stuff here. Thanks for the advice, Ben and Andy! What I'll be attempting is to pick up a JST to Lemo cable, then reconfigure the polarity at one of the ends. I'll be honing in what little soldering skills I have - fingers crossed! Either outcome, I'll let you guys know.
True. NASA uses crimped connections on the STS, I believe. More reliable than solder, but then, the space is probably a bit more hostile than a movie set. Hmmm. I take that back. I guess it all depends on the DP. I should have written: (Note to self: First omit putting the the heat-shrink on the wires before soldering. Then utter profanities. Then unsolder and *then* put the heat-shrink on the wires before soldering.) Andy.
Maybe you know which are the right Lemos for the powering of the redrockmicro? --> B, S, K, E ... ? thanks michael
Michael, I forgot. I went to a local camera supply shop here in LA and just matched them up. I can tell you that the Teradek Bolt and the RR one use the same connector, so if you can track down the info at either place then you have a winner.
Andy and Ben [and everyone else interested] I was able to reverse the polarity on the JST/Lemo cable! It was a bit of a gutsy move... a potentially expensive move, with the price of the freefly lemo cable, battery and teradek bolt. But it works! I simply took the lemo cable, cut off one end, reattached it with the reverse connection [polarity]. After the first one was a success, the others became much easier, less pressure knowing it works, and my soldering skills improved. Photo #1 - Here is the deconstructed view of the connector. The end piece is flipped, for no reason. First thing I did after unscrewing the connector, is mark on the wire connector which is which, so that when I cut off the wires, I'll know which is which and how it needs to be flipped. Photo #2 - The black mesh cover is brilliant, you can pull it back to give you freedom to access the wires. Photo #3 - cut the covering, peel off and twist the wire as thin as possible. I didn't take a photo of where you'll be soldering it, but once you clean off the old wire, you'll see there's a hole for the new wiring to fit into. I also used heat shrink wire to add an element of security. Photo #4 - Repeat for the other wire. The simply reconstruct the connection. Keep in mind the 2 pin alignment with the red dot. This may or may not be helpful, but it was a simple resolve. 4 wires took me about 2 hours and I played it real slow. Cost of custom wiring versus my 2 man-hours, I think I saved the company a bit of cash. Happy DIY
My 2 cents on this mod. Having soldered many Lemo's in my day and now also a few of the JST style hobby connectors (on the opposite end) I can suggest that the JSt's are the easier side to change the polarity. I would hack off the JSt and start with a new JST. Re-soldering a Lemo for a 2nd time can be a challenge and to replace that Lemo if you mess it up is 35 bucks the JST less then a dollar.
Frank, We sell a pigtail connector here in our store so you can build your own power solutions. And as we and Teradek use the same connector, this works as a nice and easy solution for you guys trying to build your own cables or reversing the polarity. Granted we don't use the flexible mesh shielding FF does, but just wanted to show everyone we do sell a 2-Pin flying lead. Cheers, Loren Simons Redrock Micro
Thanks for the info, so i can simply attach that to a lipo? No voltage regulator needed? I got a lot of dji phantom lipos on my desk i want to use. Lipo 3s 2200mA. Would they work? cheers Michael
Frank, The microRemote accepts 12-18v, so no regulator is needed when using a 4S battery. However, we don't suggest 3S because it will dip below 12v and possibly damage the unit.
Hey guys, I thought it could be relevant to post this here as well. The microRemote's Accessory Port has the capability to pass through an unregulated power signal from the LiPo. So it's actually possible to build a cable to power the Paralinx or Teradek Bolt from the Accessory port of the microRemote, meaning one battery to rule them all!
thx for the info! the box underneath the accessory port is a 5v BEC? btw, your "lemo" aren't from lemo, right? thx mike
Frank, Correct, the box underneath is actually the 5V regulator that came with my Paralinx. I cracked it open and replaced the D-Tap wiring with that from my 6-Pin Cable. And our connectors are lemo style push-pull connectors, but no they are not brand name Lemo. Same specs though so you can use lemo brand connectors when building custom cables.
Hi Loren Is it possible to post more photo´s of you setup. How did you attach the battery and would you use a second battery to run the movi ? Thanks simon
Simon, I attached the battery to the rear of the Gimbal Clamp using dual lock velcro. I think if I had to, I would be comfortable dual locking my back to a wall, that stuff is strong! I use a different battery to power the MoVi, I tend to always keep the MoVi powered off its own brick. Here's the last shot I grabbed of my setup, not sure if it helps you picture it any more.
Loren, i noticed that you mound the base station at a higher location... we are mounting the base station slight lower than your configuration... and sometimes we get disconnected from the wireless controller. do you know the frequency that RRM is operating? 2.4G? 5G? we are thinking to add an wider range antenna to base station and the controller to get the max range... can you advise? thanks
Albert, The microRemote runs on 2.4ghz. Please contact support@redrockmicro.com though, as you really shouldn't be loosing connection between the controller and basestation unless your several hundred feet away and not in line of sight. They'll take care of you!