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Discussion in '3 Axis Gimbal' started by Tuukka Ylonen, May 1, 2013.
Good hair, but incapable of opening his own beer.
the maytech esc's will definitely handle a red on a cs8, we used 550mm booms witth t-motor 4014-9 400kv motors with 45amp maytech opto's and 15x5 tmotor cf props and we got over 5.5 minutes flight time with a scarlet and the battery pack handle. the total weight of the red with pack was around 8lbs. we made a power cable to eliminate the the dsmc handle but it didnt work and we had to act fast to acquire the sunset shot the golf channel was looking for. we were also using 5s qc lipos while the tmotors really call for 6s power.
here are the video links.
and here is the footage we obtained, please keep in mind our 3 axis had a hard time keeping the red stable, but with enough post stabilization we were able to make it look good. we had to obtain insurance for the camera and set it up on the gimbal in 6 hours.
Oh, i forgot to ask, is the dual vibration plate worth it? i wanted to try make my own plate from some 3mm dragon plate, and use 8 dampers instead of 4. not really sure which route to go. we tried black rings on the 4 damper setup, while it worked great for the red, our fs100 shows a bit of vibration, no jello, but you can def see a pixel shift. also i had to correct my stats here, we used the new qc esc's on our heavy lift, but we originally tested the maytech 45amps on it and they worked flawlessly, the maytechs are now on our coax cs8, even in heavy winds with 2 qc 6200 5s batts and an fs100 we have no issues other than the bottom esc's and motors getting a little warmer, but still cool enough to touch after a full 7 minute flight
Back to this project after summer holidays. The build of the gimbal went fine. What confuses me is the power cable wiring.
See picture. This is the original RED cable. There are five wires altogether: Thicker black, red and green wires and thinner red and blue wires.
I am planning to power the RED with 4s 2200mAh lipos. What cables should I use and what can I cut? Are the needed ones the thick red and black wires?
I would like to get rid of the extra wires because the cable is very stiff and it will no doubt have a negative influence on the stabilization if left as is.
Tukka be careful. A wrong move or setup can damage the RED or so I have been told.
Gary you mean wrong power lead electrical wiring?
Yes the power lead wiring.
Well I found the wiring diagram from the RED manual. And it seems that there are two wires each for ground and power. This should be relatively simple if my original RED power cable was identical with the one pictured in the manual. But it is not. See picture. Anyone?
Is the picture for the wire port, or the camera port?
If the red diagram and picture are what is on the camera, then you are looking at the cable wrong. If you flip it so that the locating pin lines up, you'll see that the pinout of you cable and picture are the same.
In other words, the 2 pins on the bottom in your picture will be on top when you go to plug it into the camera port.
Well that might be the case. The picture is of the camera port. But when I look at the connector from "behind" i.e. not from the connector side, the diagram makes sense.
Managed to get the power cord sorted. Another problem emerged: I have a Kopterworx HDMI converter, this one:
I purchased a Lindy HDMI cable for it because it has a very thin wire part. It did not work. I tried all the resolutions and refresh rates of my RED Scarlet´s HDMI port with no success. When I tried my Canon 7D with the cable that came along, it worked fine.
I think this might be because the Lindy is HDMI 1.4 version. Can anyone link me to a thin/short HDMI-HDMI cable that works with Kopterworx HDMI adapter thanks?
Here you go. http://www.hypershop.com/HDMI-cables/ also same item at Amazon under the Sanho brand. I'm running the Kopterworx Mini with a Nikon D800 but have also tested with an NEX7. Both work. Make sure you run in 1080i output, 1080p doesn't work, at least on mine.
You mean you run 1080i on RED or Nikon D800? I´m not sure if RED can output 1080i via HDMI port.
On the Nikon. Need to test it with a RED.
Please do. My RED only outputs (via brain HDMI) 1080p and 720p at 24,25,30,50 and 60hz. No 1080i.
That being said, the HDMI converter´s test video by Kopterworx says it supports RED Scarlet. Here:
I sent them a question.
Gary: Did you get a reply to your question? Kopterworx promised me to test the issue and get back to me in a day but I have not heard anything from then since.
I will test with another HDMI cable tomorrow.
Tried with another HDMI cable with the same result: No picture. I have tried both resolutions and all the refresh rates with and without +5v both in PAL and NTSC.
The good folks at Kopterworx remain silent. I am in need of a downlink from RED Scarlet fast. Can anyone suggest any HDMI converter options that actually works? I would like to test Freefly one, but we have a shoot on October 2nd and 3rd and I am in Europe. I am not sure wether one from Quadrocopter makes here in time.