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Discussion in 'CineStar FAQ - Tips and Tricks' started by Gary Haynes, Jan 18, 2013.
What is the default set for I wonder?
Joshua since the clamps can be replaced I'd guess that they company that makes these makes all of the bodies the same and then just plugs in different crimp teeth. I kept wondering why I wasn't having the same success as Chris in his video, then looked closely at the pressure setting wheel and the way he had it set, changed it and it worked 100% better.
Hacked this together today from 1/2" PVC pipe. It's about 23"x23"x12". I realized after I put it together that I can stand it on its side to raise the copter even higher. Sometimes the law of unintended consequences works in your favor. I'm sure it'll even out.
Anyway, now it should be much easier to balance my gimbal and do other sorts of maintenance on the Cinestar. Plus, it'll hold the copter in the car! All for about $20 from my local Home Depot. I had a PVC pipe cutter already, which made this go super fast.
Sigh. You mean I now have to go buy a PVC pipe cutter??
Gary: Guess that's one more tool for the list, eh?
Nice idea, though Steve.
I just realized it'd be a good landing gear, too. More surface area. Just a few bungie cords...
BTW, PVC pipe cutters are cheap. This is the one I have.
I'll talk! I'll talk....just don't use that one me....
Does it come with a manual, or just Band-Aids?
Another contribution that I have found valuable. Never can seem to get enough leverage on tightening cable tie wraps. This does the job. Tried a different one and it wouldn't grip. This works with any thing I have used, from tiny thin to larger 8" tie wraps. Shorter arm is a built in cutter.
Little bit of photo-analysis and consultation with Mrs. Google: http://www.proskit.com/cable-ties/specialty/cable-tie-gun
Another tool! Yippeee!
Call me paranoid (pause for effect) but I never tighten cable ties down too far. Always worried about severing, shorting, or otherwise mangling the wires on the copter. What does everybody think about these? Gary, have you ever had a problem with delicate wires like servos getting messed up? If you're securing other things (like electronics), that's another story. But then again, a cable tie isn't an ideal thing for these.
I don't crank it down but it helps tighten when you are going around sharp corners like securing my Castle Ice 50's to the center hub. It has enough force that if you over do it you would probably cut thru wires. Be careful out there....
For attaching a Mondo Stinger to a landing gear: A tight as possible consistent with the rules of mechanical sympathy (e.g. if it starts to bend something it's probably too tight).
Holdings cables to a boom. Goldilocks setting: Just tight enough. Not too tight. Not too loose.
If you squeeze a wire too hard not only do you risk the insulation being cut, but the electrons can't get through.
I just bought the power tool that Tabb recommended... WHY DID I NOT BUY THIS BEFORE!?!?!??! I just finished building my copter again from my recent trip and I had all 32 of the screws tightened for the booms in 1 min! That took me 5 minutes before AND i couldn't feel my fingers anymore AND had my hands all messed up! It's amazing!
I have been using an electric screwdriver, and it's been great, but I wanted something with an articulating head, so I hunted around, and I found this one. It's more expensive than the others that have been recommended here, but it also has a very short head, which will work great for things like gimbal balancing. I'll let y'all know how it works out!
And Josh besides all of the small screws if you get the 10mm nut driver that Andy suggests putting props on and off are a snap. Means you can do some ground testing with them off that you might have done in the past with props still on the motors because it took so long to take them on and off with a ratchet wrench.
I found that a setting of about 10-13 on the Hitachi works well for the screws and cranked up full for the prop nuts. You don't get the ratchet slip up full but anything lower didn't seem to get the nuts tight, at least with the Xoar props.
I suspect there are some variations with the Hitachi torque settings too, but 13 seems plenty tight for the APCs.
I like the look of the Bosch with the tilting head. Might get one of these once Steve reports back on his experiences with it.
Hey, Andy... Does the '13' setting work with the Prop Lock-Nuts you recommend in the video?
Yes. That's what I found with the APC props to be the Goldilocks setting, not too tight to crush the props and not too loose to allow them to spin. Your mileage (and torque setting) may vary!
This brings up a good point which really can't be overstated enough. Always exercise extreme caution when working with a machine on the bench when it's powered and active. We all know it's kind of a pain in the rear to remove props when working on radio or ESC settings but it's truly the right thing to do. Getting a power driver is a small price to pay to help enable that.
LOL... That's the same method I use, Andy!
I purchased the Hitachi driver... When you mention '13' on the torque setting for the locking-propnuts, are you on high or low speed... I would assume low, but I'd just like to check....