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Discussion in 'Freefly Tero' started by Rick Gerard, Jan 13, 2019.
Did Freefly discontinue the Tero? I don't see it available in the store anymore.
We are sad to say that the TERO has been discontinued. The manufacturer of the base car we were using can no longer supply us with the chassis (we've been special ordering it for the last year or so).
The future design of the TERO is uncertain, but we will build something for your small chase car needs!
Might be worth looking into the King Motor Car - Their basically the same chassis (Baja B5 Flux) https://www.kingmotorrc.com/camera-cars/radio-control-rc-camera-car-baja-brushless-radio-control/
I have a King Motor Car. The initial price was good but I have put about another $800 into a better steering servo, aluminum steering linkage because it was plastic and wobbly, a new and better transmitter and receiver with steering assist that steers into a skid to prevent spinouts and tip-overs, front and rear shocks and other suspension upgrades. I'm still working on perfecting the vibration isolators. Generally the same frame, but nowhere near the build quality of the original. I am probably going to swap out the ESC and motor with a sensored motor and the Freefly Arc 200 as a controller, and maybe even belt drive to get smoother low-speed performance. I used an Arc 200 and this motor: https://diyelectricskateboard.com/c...products/electric-skateboard-motor-6355-190kv, to power my cable cam. It works much better.
When did you buy your king motor? They say on their site they have upgraded a few parts from the stock one. I was about to get one but not sure now.
If they have aluminum steering parts it will save you a bunch of money. If I had to do it again I would probably go for a 4 wheel drive car because they get stuck pretty easily. I recently did a job near Mojave and I wish I had added fenders. The rear wheels threw sand all over everything. I think I'll 3d print or vacuum form some fenders for my car.
Ask them if their radios have something like Spektrum's Active Vehicle control and if the motor and controller use a motor sensor. It is impossible to get a smooth start if your motor does not have a sensor and the ECW does not use it. I went with this Spektrum receiver and radio combination and it's marvelous.
the Tech: https://www.spektrumrc.com/Technology/AVC.aspx
my Radio/Receiver: https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=SPM4210
I have it tuned so you can be going full speed, throw the steering wheel all the way left or right and not tip over or spin out on level ground. (Dead weight installed for the tests, not my MoVI with a camera)
Vibration isolators can be really problematic. My CNC machine is working on a couple of new rings for an isolator that is only going to be about 3/4 of an inch thick to add to the existing top plate right now. I still get sharp jolts that show up from time to time that the MoVI Pro can't compensate for. It's like having the wrong isolators installed on an Alta. I need a little more fluid support so I don't get motion blur for 3 frames because the left front tire hit a 3/4" rock. I have never owned a Tero so I don't know how much better their vibration isolators are but I've been mounting cameras on crazy vehicles for more than 40 years and using wire loops for most of that time and they always seem to take a lot of fiddling to get really perfect. Hanging ones are easier to tune than the top loaded ones like on the Tero so your results may vary.
I hope this helps. I don't use the car as much as I thought I would but when I need it is very nice to have.
If your looking for a good car option check our www.motion-impossible.com
They say it's got Aluminium upgrades in the description:
•Hobbywing EZRUN 200A Waterproof Brushless ESC For 1/5 RC Car #EZRUN MAX5-V3 (tuned for slower, more controlled driving)
•960KV 3500KW brushless motor, Huge 8MM heavy duty steel output shaft
•Billet aluminum twin cooling fans for cooling the huge 960KV motor
•Vibration isolation system utilizing strong wire rope isolators
•VVC shocks with HD 6mm shafts (Long suspension: 7 3/8"-front & 8 1/4"-rear)
•Wheelie bar included for camera safety
•MT-3D 2.4GZH FHSS 3channel radio (details below)
•Rear heavy duty CVD Axles Aluminum main chassis
•1-inch front and 4-inch rear aluminum wheel hub extenders for better stability
•New design battery box safely fits both batteries, custom receiver box and servo mount
•Metal gear steering servo(33KG)
•Billet aluminum steering Servo Arm
•Billet aluminum front shock support and tower set, and HD rear shock tower brace and supports
•Super strong Poison nylon rims with 24mm metal hex hub insert
•Front and rear 3 inch wide road tires for good stability
•Billet aluminum front and rear upper and lower suspension A-Arms
•Billet aluminum front and rear hubs
Does this sound like its been enhanced from the version you brought?
The steering servo arm looks improved. The radio an receiver are more suited to racing than camera work so they should be replaced with active vehicle control. With that feature you can prevent roll over and high-speed loss of control. The car will also track a straight line without any steering input. I also replaced my shocks, still fine tuning the vibration isolators. Frankly, their 4 wheel-drive car looks like a much better car. If I had to do it over again I would go four-wheel drive.
I happened to be on a shoot with someone who had the 4WD version from King Motor so had a good chance to eye ball it.
It seems good; not so great from a starting position but then again i don't think the Tero was any good from videos i've seen. It seems you just have to accept that you'll never get a shot from a standing start.
I asked the guys who were running it and they seemed happy with the footage.
I think i may go with this option
I replaced the motor in mine with a sensor motor and replaced the ECU with the Freefly Arc 200. I get amazing smooth starts. Arc200 – Freefly Storehttps://store.freeflysystems.com/products/arc200
Here's a live stream from Freefly about the controller:
The three opening shots for this video were shot with my modified King Motor car on some pretty rough ground. Pardon the flicker at the end. My cam op reset the shutter speed on the Sony A7 iii to 125 and we got a flicker from the led fire.
I can go slower with my Kingmotor (4WD) without changing anything. I just modified throttle's ramping in radio.
You can repair the flicker with Flicker Free plugin for After Effect or directly with Davinci Resolve (there is a Flicker plugin).
The flicker plugin from Digital Anarchy is pretty solid - have used it many times. Inexpensive plugin for after Effects, and maybe OFX plugin system (Resolve's system) now too. (I think it's called Flicker Free - have trouble remembering - so agree with Pascal if that is the same)
We tested all of them 2 or so years ago, after a nightmare situation in a stadium, where every light was flickering on a slightly different frequency (house lighting, which we had to use because the whole stadium had to be lit at night, and just not enough horsepower in the truck - was a nasty mix of cheap ballast LEDs fluos, LED video screens and tungsten cans) The one from Digital Anarchy was fastest to use and had the fewest artifacts.
So I got my King motor version and it’s not bad but I’m seeing jolts in the footage even with the smallest of bumps and I’m taking just cracks in the pavement/sidewalk. I’m currently using a light camera package (Sony A7Rii with a cage). I’m not sure if I need more weight for the wire rope isolation to work correctly or if there just crap. Any experience with this and the best things to try?
You are going to have parallax shifts the camera is moving in relation to the ground, but you can mitigate those problems by making sure that the shocks on the car are perfectly tuned to the weight you are carrying. The cable isolators are a bit stiff for a lightweight package. You can improve the isolation performance by adding a little weight to the gimbal and by adding weight to the top plate. I went so far as to replace the wire rope isolators but just adding weight helps a lot. Just don't put it all on the gimbal.
You should also be running Blackjack and your hold strengths should be pretty high. The default is 30, but I usually run mine at 50. 60 is about the top limit for my typical camera package.
I hope this helps. An RC car is a good tool, but unless you spend a ton of money on it it's not going to give you perfect shots with most lenses when you run it over bumpy ground.