ok thank ,but if a just want to use a spektrum satelite in the radian how can i connect the pan servo then??
You can set the Radian Aux channel to the one you want to control the pan then plug the servo into output from the radian (port 2).
thanks alot johnC no i just have on problem left when i shal open the software i get this message: potensially unsafe file??? do you know what to do about it??
Is this with winzip ?. Extract all the files into a folder then install from there. You shouldn't get a warning in that case.
Before I set this in motion can you confirm if this wiring plan will work? I have a single operator QC RTF Cine6 with 2 axis gimbal and MK electronics. I want to use one Radian to control roll, but will keep MK / Poti / DX8 Aux 3 control for Tilt. The RTF already has source power (6200MAH 14.8V) stepped down to DC 12V 1.0A via a TSR1-24120 for the camera Tx. I have already tapped that once and stepped it down via a TSR1-2450 to power FFS HDMI converter. My questions: 1. Is there enough current there for me to tap that 12V again and step down to 5v (have a Castle BEC) to power the Radian --> Servo or should I tap source power directly? 2. Should I put a switch between the power and the Radian so everything doesn't power up together?
Hi Colin: I would not tap into that 12v source again -- you've only got 1 Amp, and a FF servo is going to pull 1.5A or more depending on how hard it is working. I'm also leery of putting too much "stuff" on my primary flight battery -- if anything goes wrong, shorts out, etc., then your C6 will switch from "flying mode" to "plummeting mode" and you really don't want that. I use a separate QC1200 Lipo for the payload camera video transmitter and the three Radian sensors and servos, a camera IR trigger, and the HDMI converter. It runs the system for, oh, around 60 - 90 minutes.....I have a LiPo monitor/alarm on it so I know when to change it. True, I'm running a 3-Axis gimbal and therefore there's no way I could run power from the flight battery to the gimbal, but I would hesitate to do so for the reasons stated. All I have on the flight battery is the avionics, the LEDs, and the FPV system. Even then, I'm wondering about the wisdom of having the LEDs and the FPV system (the Traco shuts down at 13.X volts and so in an emergency, I'd have no FPV). I don't think there's a need for a separate switch for the Radians, though. Hope this helps. Don't hesitate to come back with more questions if you have them. Andy.
Does help Andy. Not having enough current from the 12v source is my main concern. Thanks for confirming that. RE: Your suggestions. Adding an additional battery creates two new concerns - weight and fit. I'd rather not add more weight and there is very little room to add anything more on the 2X gimbal. If I tap into primary power with the BEC I would think the overall load wouldn't be effected much since there would be no net-increase in power draw; unless -1 MK controlled servo does not equal +1 Radian controlled servo. Please correct that assumption if wrong. Overall, I am pretty conservative with power and now use a telemetry alarm at 14.2v. Early on I was relying only on the built-in low voltage buzzer / alarm. With that I had one hard landing when it hit Emergency-Gas level. Lesson learned.
FWIW, I put the QC1200 battery along the top of the right-hand forward boom -- it helps balance out the weight of the Radian sensor, pulley, and servo. I agree. The only delta is the Radian servo and I don't believe they pull that much current -- an order of magnitude less than the servo. I have the low voltage alarm set to 14.4v just to give me that little extra time to fly home, but that said, I noticed with the QC8000 and the Maxamps 10900 batteries that they "flirt" with the 14.4 limit [Edit: I was hovering the C8 six feet off the ground]. The LEDs on the copter would start to flash, stop, start to flash and stop, and this cycle repeated for about 30 - 40 seconds -- so the voltage decay rate seems to be slower than with the QC6200 (and perhaps the MK sensor needs to average out the readings better rather than instantaneous readings -- I've not looked at the source code enough to know what the FC board is doing). Anyway, hope this helps. Andy.
Yes. Does help. I was at 14.4 and changed it to 14.2. I get flirt there with the 6200's. I assumed it was a good thing. I could tell when I was stressing / not stressing the kopter. I found taking off auto controls - especially GPS hold - would eliminate the flirt / extend time a little. Cheers Colin
Andy - I think you are right about a separate battery. With this set up (tap into main) I got about 6 min flight time as opposed to 8 min. "Scotty, I need more power..."