Radian Settings Help please

Discussion in 'Radian' started by Gary Shainberg, Nov 11, 2013.

  1. Gary Shainberg

    Gary Shainberg New Member

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    Guys,

    This video was the first flight of my new CS3 with 3 x Radians flying a Nikon D7100 with 18-55 lens that I flew today using some settings I got off the forum which are:

    Pan=80 / Tilt=110 / Role=150


    password = freefly

    Sorry its about 4 mins but throughout the video there is instability and if you look at 3mins+ it gets worse, please can someone have a look at the video and give me some feedback and some suggestions on how I should change the settings.
     
  2. Gary Haynes

    Gary Haynes Administrator
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    Gary it is a matter of trial and error. Lots of posts on the forum. Basically make sure the gimbal is perfectly balanced, not close but perfect for the camera/lens setup. Then it is a number of test flights. When you think you are close to dialed in then isolate each channel. Turn everything off but tilt and do a flight, followed by everything off but roll, then a flight with everything on. Same simple pattern, out and back, one after another so that flight parameters are pretty much the same. Then start making fine adjustments to the settings.

    There is no short cut if you want to reduce and jitter to the minimums achievable.
     
  3. Gary Shainberg

    Gary Shainberg New Member

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    Gary,

    Much thanks and I think after some time I have the balance right so I will follow your process and try, however, what did you think of the video for its first flight, to me it looked OK, just needs some fine tuning.

    Gary
     
  4. Gary Haynes

    Gary Haynes Administrator
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    Gary, sorry I saw your post on my iPad so didn't see the video until this morning. You should be able to do much better on reducing the vibrations that you have. Just a note that hovering is the worst way to test since the copter is sitting in 'dirty' air. Better for test flights to do a simple out and back flight at least 10 feet or more off the ground so that your are out of the ground effect air bubble. From your video i'd guess you need to adjust both tilt and roll gains. Also what camera/lens are you running and what color O rings on the gimbal vibration mount?
     
  5. Gary Shainberg

    Gary Shainberg New Member

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    BTW what do you think about the G-Lock upgrade ?
     
  6. Steve Maller

    Steve Maller UAV Grief Counselor

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    Which vibration isolators are you using? They're the little rubber bands (probably red) that suspend the gimbal from the copter frame. The DSLRs typically require a little more stiffness than a small camcorder or mirrorless camera. But there's a bit of trial and error involved in that. I am using 4 reds and 2 blues on each of mine, I think (copter isn't here...I can't honestly remember). But you could be seeing a bit of resonance between the copter and the gimbal. Yet another more variable to consider. o_O

    http://www.quadrocopter.com/Vibration-Dampener-O-Rings_p_638.html
     
  7. Gary Shainberg

    Gary Shainberg New Member

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    Steve,

    Much thanks for the response as I am using the Echo QR mount I am using their rubber mounts which are black and they feel quite stiff, for what is worth I also have the whole gimbal mounted to the A/C which also has a gel based anti vibration mount so unless one is cancelling out the other which I do not think is the case the gimbal is well isolated from the actual a/c which is a Vulcan Mantis Octo.

    What camera do you fly and what settings do you have ?
     
  8. Gary Haynes

    Gary Haynes Administrator
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    Gary start doing your test flights. The Echo QR I have heard is a good mount. But having two sets of vibration dampers may induce their own set of issues.
     
  9. Steve Maller

    Steve Maller UAV Grief Counselor

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    I fly a Panasonic GH3 with 12-35 lens on a FF 2-axis gimbal. Radian settings are somewhere around 90-100 for both tilt and roll. I get good results (see my vimeo channel at http://vimeo.com/stevemaller for lots of examples...some stabilized, some not). I usually use a 3x or 6x ND filter. And even the two different filters require the gimbal to be re-balanced (just the tilt, usually). But I re-balance the whole thing every few times I fly because I find the roll bars creep downward after a few normal (rough) landings.

    One thing you'll learn is that there's value in giving the copter come "give" in most of the connections, at least where things can flex (landing gear, gimbal connections, etc). But that does not include the motor mounts on the boom arms. Ask me how I know that. :eek:
     
  10. Gary Shainberg

    Gary Shainberg New Member

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    Steve, much thanks and I have had a look at some of the video's which are great, two things though firstly if you flew are when I live you would think you where at home :) I live in a small village in Cornwall in the fast South West of the UK with a coast line facing the Atlantic Ocean have a look at our Vimeo page https://vimeo.com/tsoimaging and look at the Royal Navy Merlin video (taken with a Zenmuse and NEX7 (which is no longer with us - long story but I am sure you have been there - or close) and why I am now trying to get to grips with a FF-CS3

    The other thing is you might know a very good friend who lives in HM Bay, Robert Scoble ?
     
  11. Steve Maller

    Steve Maller UAV Grief Counselor

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    Thanks for the kind words, and it's nice to know that there are other folks who value the same things I do and make the sacrifices to live in these stormy places. :) If I saw a chopper that big coming at the beach here I was, I'd get the hell out of there. Even if it was a friendly!
    And I know Scoble, too. He's quite the local celebrity.
     
  12. Gary Shainberg

    Gary Shainberg New Member

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    Steve, the Helicopter flaming was a little planned :) so it was very safe etc, glad to see you know my dear friend Robert, next time you see him you should mention we have the same interests :)
     

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