In the manual it says that the shutter release needs to be half down for the IS to be on. How would you do that with the remote shutter cable? I know the IS switch has to be in the on position on the lens but I wasn't sure if the remote shutter cable would activate the shutter in a way that it would enable IS. I guess auto focus would be in the same category for functionalty although I won't be using that. I just want to make sure the "IS" works before I buy it.
Dave, buy it from Amazon (what ever it is) and if you don't like the way it works because the marketing materials weren't clear send it back. Features that sound the same on one body may not work the same on another body from Canon.
I'm a pro nature photographer. There are custom functions you can set for the IS to begin by pressing the button half way or just before the exposure. Of course that will depend on the lens you are using.
To my knowledge there's no way to do with the Canon remote trigger when the camera is in the air. Correct? I just want to make sure the IS function works to take out the very small vibrations from the copter.
Thanks for the reply Gary. I have a great relationship with B&H, my rep will take anything back for me. I've noticed that amazon beats a lot of B&H prices. I get an educational discount with B&H as well and sometimes they still aren't close to Amazon.
If you are talking about stills, press the trigger half-way before taking the picture and that will activate the IS. This is by default. What body and lens are you using?
Hello Maxis Thanks for the reply. Maybe I'm overlooking something very obvious? Can you tell me how do you press the trigger half way down when you are using a switch on the radio to fire the shutter? I'm using a 7D and I"m going to try the 24mm EF IS lens.
Oh I see... I thought you were using another trigger. My fault. In that case, there should be a custom function on the 7D to activate the IS first before image capture. Make sure you are using the latest firmware. I still have a 7D laying around since I only use the 5DMKIII, 5DMKII and 1D MKIV mainly now.
On the 24IS it's pretty quiet. I hooked up my 5dmkII to the tv and started shaking the camera like vibration then while doing that I switched on the IS and you could see the video stabilize. So now I just turn it on when I put it on the octa and forget it. The older IS lenses used to be a lot noisier there was no doubt that it was on. These newer lenses they are making quieter for the video.
On the 24/2.8 IS it's very subtle, and not at all easy to see whether it's actually working or not. But you can easily see the difference if you turn on live view or go into video mode, and click the "Zoom" button. You can tell what it's doing in that mode by handholding. But truth be told, the amount of actual stabilization at 24mm is pretty minimal, because it can be. If you've ever used a Canon 70-200 IS, you'll be surprised at the difference, but if you understand what the Canon IS system does and how it works, it makes sense.
Thanks Steve. That helps. I know you really like the L glass too. I'm seriously considering the 17-24 L glass too if I can isolate the vibration down. I believe my radians are set too strong and oscillating the camera a bit.
L glass is simply the way to go. My new 24-70mm f/2.8 L II, is the best glass I have in my bag besides my 800mm which is another dynamite lens.
For video the 24mm prime IS is a must have, IMO for aerial shooting. The IS makes all the difference in the world (stability-wise) compared to a non-IS lens, plus it's relatively lightweight. I have all the L series glass in my kit, but when you're talking primes like the 24mm or the 50mm there's hardly a reason to go with L glass which comes at a huge weight and price penalty. I would never shoot with any zoom lens that is not L series on my Canons, but optically the EF primes are excellent and on par with L glass.