Power draw issue

Discussion in 'MōVI Pro' started by Josh Park, Dec 11, 2016.

  1. Graham Futerfas

    Graham Futerfas Well-Known Member

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    Back to the power draw issue, I wasn't able to install the HotFix firmware for some reason (Chris said I might have to wait for an official release... engineering stuff), but...

    I was on a shoot today with an Arri Mini that had a WCU-4 and did Focus and Iris through the camera's wireless. All powered through the Movi Pro perfectly! Camera, Focus\Iris, Tomahawk. Camera was on the 6A D-Tap and Tomahawk was on the 2A D-Tap on the TSU. Without the Hotfix, Tomahawk is still not working on the GCU 2A D-Tap.

    The Focus and Iris were both working throughout the Movi's battery life -- from 100% all the way down.

    I can tell you, it was AWESOME only dealing with Movi Batteries and being able to hot swap. Also, it felt lighter not having to use V-mount batteries on the rig. And of course, the Movi Pro is such a dream to work with, fast to adjust, the new Mimic is amazing, and the Director and DP were both very happy.

    Anyway, just thought I'd report on this particular configuration, because I'm actually surprised the Focus and Iris motors don't drag the Arri over the 6A limit with everything going on.
     
    Samer Aslan likes this.
  2. Thijm le Grand

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    Arri mini is between 45-50watt
    Red is around 60-65watt
     
    SeBaStIaN BArrEtT likes this.
  3. Joshua Coté

    Joshua Coté Member

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    Just a quick confirmation before I pull the trigger on these purchases, the Freefly MōVI M15 batteries will power the Bartech FStop and Preston MDRs AND motors without issue? I don't mind adding a battery to the rig, just want to be prepared to do so when the time comes.

    I'm thinking about finding/creating a holster that attaches to a Pop-N-Lock for those batteries, something to clean the build up and make those battery swaps smooth.
     
  4. Graham Futerfas

    Graham Futerfas Well-Known Member

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    Hi Joshua, to confirm for you, I use the M15 batteries to power my Bartech FStop and any accessory that will take up to 17V. I use the JST to D-Tap adapter that Freefly sells, and I use a Tenergy Charger like this:

    https://www.amazon.com/Combo-Specia...82847802&sr=8-2&keywords=tenergy+lipo+charger

    The batteries last a while with just the F-Stop, but you need to monitor the voltage because they're not supposed to be drained below 3.3V per cell. Getting a cheap LiPo checker is useful:

    https://www.amazon.com/Floureon-Bat...8&qid=1482847961&sr=8-5&keywords=Lipo+checker

    As for the Pop-N-Lock idea, I tried to build a battery holster out of the old M15 battery cage, but I found it kind of heavy and hard to find a plate to clamp it on. I ended up just putting Dual Lock velcro on the batteries, and put some on the cameras during prep. Use paper tape below the Dual Lock so you can easily remove it at the end of the shoot. With just the FStop drawing power, you might only go through two or three batteries per day, so it's not really a hassle to swap batteries.

    If you're curious, here's how I built the cage on to a pop-n-lock, even though I abandoned the concept because it made balancing tricky, and the battery door barely closes with the bolt head in there:

    IMG_0685.jpg IMG_0687.jpg IMG_0689.jpg IMG_0690.jpg

    Here's the LiPo on the back of a Mini, using Dual Lock, powering the FStop:

    IMG_0840.jpg
     
    Joshua Coté likes this.
  5. Joshua Coté

    Joshua Coté Member

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    That's too bad the battery holster didn't work out, it does look really clean!

    Thanks for the info, I needed this solution to work as a few of the camera packages I work with use Bartechs.
     
  6. Bryan Edmonds

    Bryan Edmonds Chief MōVI Whisperer

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    The slots at the ends of the Pop-N-Lock plates are ideal for up 1" velcro straps. I found an 7" strap in the shop, and set it up to share with you. The closest thing I could to this was on Amazon.

    It's generally easier to balance the gimbal if weight is added close to center mass, instead of far left or right. The 15mm Pop-N-Lock might serve you better here, so the battery can be mounted to the top or bottom of the camera cage, instead of the arm

    Pop-N-Lock_01.jpg Pop-N-Lock_02.jpg
     
    #26 Bryan Edmonds, Dec 27, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2016
  7. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
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    Nice solution, Bryan.
    Andy

    Forensic Software & sUAV / Drone Analyst : Photographer : Videographer : Pilot (Portland, Oregon, USA): Trees=2, Ground=1, Props=11. :(
    The Ground Is The Limit™
    ---------- Forensic Drone Analyst : Forensic sUAV Analyst : Forensic Unmanned Aircraft Analyst : Forensic Drone Expert
     
  8. Graham Futerfas

    Graham Futerfas Well-Known Member

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    Great idea, Bryan!
     
  9. Charlie Beyer

    Charlie Beyer Member

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    I only just got my Pro today and it looks amazing, Thanks Freefly for keeping the innovation pedal to the metal. I was an early adopter of the M10 and was on the Go Big for the M15 and basically feel as though I am an early adopter of the Pro being within the first 2-3 months. Every model in the early stages have learning curve and we need to be be flexible. I trust in the Freely people that they are doing their best to make the best. My first job with the M10 was in January and the Lipos wouldn't power the Movi in the sub freezing temps. So I figured out how to fix that. The Preston MDR 2 is a beast but we figured out how to Velcro that to the camera body on an M10. When a DP asked me to fly a F55 and a Primo 17.5 and MDR2 and matte box with 2 filters on my M15, I figured it out.

    I think that if the new pro lipos don't power a camera body and teradek 3000 and a Bartek Preston then were simply going to have to power one thing with an old Lipo for the time being. Not such big deal, 4.4oz for the M5 Lipos. That was the same issue with the IDX and in some cases the Anton Bauer batteries. The monitor on the top handle needs power and I typically power my teradek with that battery anyway. I bet this problem is only an issue with the Mini and the Red which are both power hungry.

    I would love a Freefly hand unit that feels and performs like preston but works within the Freefly system. That seems like something they are working on. Preston makes one thing (or two) and they make it really well. I own one and have used one for hundreds of days as a focus puller, there is no substitute. AC's want them for performance primarily and for rental secondarily. Freefly is making gimbals that work really well. Hand sets for AC's that interface within the Pro is not a top priority but they seem to be working on it, be patient.
     
  10. Ryan Forte

    Ryan Forte Member

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    I agree I started a thread ain this very topic, but it got no love I think if we all spoke up it would get more attention.

    I wish you could Hook up alpha wheels to the Mimic as well. I think a mimic w/wheels and a hand unit for Follow Focus or compatibility to existing hand units would be the ultimate set of control for the movi pro.

    http://forum.freeflysystems.com/index.php?threads/wireless-focus.8792/
     
  11. Josh Park

    Josh Park Member

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    Anyone tested the Movi Pro with DJI Focus? Curious to see if it works and is able to power the camera all together.
     
  12. David Turner

    David Turner New Member

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    Very helpful discussion so far. Three things to add:

    - I would also love to hear if anyone has powered a RT Motion FIZ (really just focus and iris), through the Pro without hitting these power draw problems. I'm not sure the pull on that unit.

    - Is there an official list of FIZ motors that work with the Pro internal FIZ system?

    - I'm not sure how it would be accomplished, but being able to somehow communicate with the Pro's internal FIZ system with a standard hand controller would be great (obviously limited to whatever systems have compatible motors). Is there was a way to sort of daisy-chain off the remote that would be great.
     
  13. Josh Lambeth

    Josh Lambeth Well-Known Member

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    Just a little FYI/Work around that we found...

    We tried powering a Preston system through the 12V port on the TCU but it wasn't enough power. We then added a 4 way DTap splitter to the CAM power port and powered both an EPIC AND the Preston FIZ without issues all day. We also tested the same thing with an Alexa Mini.

    Josh
     
  14. Graham Futerfas

    Graham Futerfas Well-Known Member

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    Hi Josh, is this on the original firmware or with the new Beta firmware? I'm now able to power my Bartech with the latest 1.1FW.
     
  15. Josh Lambeth

    Josh Lambeth Well-Known Member

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    That was on the original. I just updated to 1.1 but havent tried powering anything else off that yet.
     
  16. Bryan Edmonds

    Bryan Edmonds Chief MōVI Whisperer

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    • The MōVI Pro FIZ does not currently have the ability to be controlled by third part hand units.
     
  17. Chris Fox

    Chris Fox Active Member

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    Hi David,
    Rt Motion with two motors, terradek bolt 2000 and Alexa Mini or Red Epic seems to be working just fine for us.
    Cheers
     
  18. Benjamin Granet

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    I just had training on the Shotover G1 and I find they made a really useful thing on it.
    I'm curious if it could be done on the Movi.

    You can plug a Preston MDR to the ground station and control the integrated FIZ from the gimbal with the hand unit.
    I'm curious if it would be doable on the Freefly controler or on the new Mimic unit? Any thought on that Freefly? It would be great as ACs could use their own beloved unit.
     
  19. David Turner

    David Turner New Member

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    Thanks Chris! How are your routing your power? Camera off 12-14CAM port, and the Teradek & RT Motion in the two different 12V ports?

    I would 2nd this. Would be great to have a way to use regular FIZ hand units through the Movi Pro.
     
  20. Jason Toth

    Jason Toth Active Member

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    +1 and longer range for the movi controller, kind of useless on a drone!
     

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