I've consulted with a couple of electronics gurus I know. Their suggestion was to bend the pins for the connector as you've already done, then wrap a small piece of 600 grit sandpaper around the edge of the Double Quadro board with the 600 grit facing out -- then gently rub the connector on and off the board (mimicking the motion of connecting/disconnecting). This should remove the sharp edges that are causing the scratches. Andy.
And you will hear mixed things about VOX (literally and metaphorically). They can easily be fooled by ambient noise into thinking that someone is speaking -- if the ambient noise persists it "jams" the channel for the person who's closest to the noise. However, they beat nothing! Especially with the earpiece and mic. Andy.
By the way, the RMU2043 are Canada-only. You have to terminate each transmission, not with "over" but with "eh?" Andy.
The best way I found to update the bl boards was to follow this instructions install the firmware Start the Update-attempt by the KopterTool Then Power up the BL-Board when the PC says "Trying to connect..." The Bootloader starts after re-powering and can start the update process. took me for ever the other way I until tried this method. you need steady hands also sometimes it stops half way through It can be done in under 10 mins
Jason, the problem is not with the procedure, per se. It is with the physical connection to the pads on the BL boards. Once you've performed the upgrade a few times on each BL (there have been at least 5 revisions of the firmware since I got mine), the pads begin to get scratched up and the connection to them becomes intermittent. Once I get a good connection to a BL, it takes all of about 30 seconds to do the update and verify that it worked. But it can take quite a while to get a good connection.
This is one of the biggest problems with the current method. I have seen guys use hot glue as well. Doing demo videos tonight, one more full day of filming!
I've been pondering the problem of the connections. I suspect the best way would be to "tack solder" a short length of bare wire to pads 1 and 9 as shown instead of the gold pins you see in the ovals in this image: http://gallery3.mikrokopter.de/var/resizes/tech/Update_Bl_V3.jpg?m=1410801952 The bare wires need to stick out from the board maybe 1/8" of an inch (that's roughly 3 millithingies) so that you can then connect up using a pair of mini probe clips: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0ZK3Q9QGFMN36X583RA6 The other end of the mini probes can then clamp on to the two gold pins that are sticking out of the ribbon cable header shown in the first image above. After the upgrade you can either (a) remove the bare wires from pins 1 and 9, or (b) if you want to live dangerously, leave them in place. Personally, I'd unsolder them -- you can resolder/unsolder many times without harming the pads provided you're careful. Andy.
By the time we figure out how to do this efficiently, the firmware will be finalized and there will be no more updates.
Andy, That seems like a good idea! The only problem I could see is removing a pad on accident and being SOL
I agree -- if you are careless when you solder, then you can pry a pad away from the underlying board -- hence the phrase "tack solder" -- meaning to put a small dab of solder on the pad to form a cushion, then lay the wire onto the pad, and put the tip of the iron on the wire just to melt the solder on the pad and blow on the joint to cool it quickly. To remove the wire, touch the tip of the iron onto the wire and, as soon as you see the solder melt very, very gently pull the wire along its long axis (parallel to the board's surface) until the wire comes free. Do NOT lift the wire up away from the board -- that can put a force on the pad that can lift it from the board. AMHIK. But, y'know, ya learn.... Andy.
I was careless on some BL 2.0's =/ So I will work out how to do this tonight when we get back from flying/filming and shoot some video of it. I think this is the simplest and quickest method offered up so far.
My MK USB must have bit the dirt. I can't get it to update anything=/ Waiting on a new one to make a vid.
Ryan: Are you sure it's the actual MK USB board and not something in the communications chain (e.g. Windows, COM Port drivers, ribbon cable?) Can you do a loop-back test on the connector that fits on to the FC/NC board with it for example? Andy
Andy, It is. PC does not recognize it nor does my Mac (No Tx/RX lights on plug in etc, does not show up in device manager). Tried a loopback and got nothing=/
Hmm. Try different USB cable? The lack of Tx/Rx lights is an indication that either (a) there's no power getting to the board or (b) as you suggest, the adapter is an ex-adapter, gone to meet it's maker, joined the choir eternal, etc. Andy.