Dave I'm not currently running the MK stack, switched to HF, so don't have the extension PDB. I did the original test before I bought the parts from RC-Lights. The LED's from RCL are shown in the video. They are 5mm and if the copter is within 10-20 running two red's on the back boom you are nearly unable to look at it due to the brightness.
So the RCL lights are too bright then? I see. I think I'm going to get both them and the NTE bulbs. How did you get the light to strobe? It looks like that LED controller kit is for continuous lighting?
Dave, when you look at the rc-lights page for LED's they offer 5mm LED's that flash, but only in white and red with a $2 upcharge. The larger controllers, according to the literature, give you steady on, pulsing like a rotating beacon on an airplane and strobe. All in one controller. The kit I ordered is the RCL5324 kit so will let you know how the controller works out. The brightness of using 2 led's really works well once the copter is at a couple of hundred feet away. At that range I could still clearly see the red lights even in bright daylight.
I ordered the same basic controller you did to start out and the regulator as well. Just curious as to where you put your regulator? I appreciate the links again it was very helpful. Looking forward to getting my stuff in the mail. I really want some orientation lights behind the copter so I know what my orientation is.
Did you heat shrink it at all? What is the adjustment pot on the board? It's hard to see from the one pic?
The regulator isn't in the pics. But yes I did put it in shrink wrap and the pot is to adjust the output voltage.
Gary I received the voltage regulator yesterday and installed it. Very nice, I set it to 5.5 volts out. I take it that you have tried both the NTE 4mm lights and the 5mm RC-lights? IF so which do you like better? I think I perfer continuous lighting instead of strobing.
It's harder to see continuous lights, Dave -- that's why aircraft, police cars, snow ploughs, etc. use strobes.... It's just the way the visual cortex works, I think -- continuous stimulae tend to get factored out. Andy.
The red strobe is part of an LED kit. We used two different cameras on that shoot, a hacked GH2 and a Canon 60D that the client owned. Glad you enjoyed the footage - we appreciate it!
Josh I bought a small test kit from RC-Lights. Their LED's are BRIGHT!!! Ordered the same kit as Ben, do the kit it is cheaper than the individual components. Just need to install it on my rebuild. Also found some inserts at the hardware store for the ends of the booms. Makes for a clean install but of course would need to be modified if you run your motor wires internally. (Piece of boom tape to help me know which is red/green)
I noticed in the latest QC Cinestar heavy lifter teaser video that Jeff's run his motor wires along the outside of the booms, too. I wonder if there's a field advisory to be inferred there.
On this rebuild I decided to run them externally. Saw that Jeff Scholl has them external on his Red Epic mystery, super secret machine and gave that some thought. Since I am running Castle ICE esc's like Josh it makes some sense. Pros: If you do travel with your copter where you dis-assemble the booms then it would be much easier. No sharp bends weaving the wires down the boom and up through the center hub. Easier reconnections. Easier to replace a bad ESC quickly. Less weight/less wire. Cons: Wires are exposed. I did address this by putting them in a braided sheath. You are going to need to CUT the motor wires. Repeat after me. Measure, measure, measure, (did I say measure) and then cut. So all motor wires need to be adjusted, remove bulletts and reinstall on the shorter wires. After I did the motor wires I then shortened the ESC wires to match. Based on some guidance I did the motor wires at 325mm from the edge of the motor case to the tip of the bullett. Bullett was 10mm so I took a piece of spare wire, cut it to 315mm and used that as a guide. This took about 4-5 hours to complete with the sheathing. Still need to clean up the ESC wires, may braid them, but for sure will get them close together. First flights will be today. FC only and then start adding the other bits and pieces.
I've wondered whether running (and securing) the motor wires outside the booms would reduce vibrations and even a possible resonance problem (imagined) that could develop with all 8 sets of motor wires making their long (and unsecured) run through the CF tubes.
I'm looking to go the external route myself because threading the wires is no fun when you're building the copter back up after traveling it.