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Discussion in 'Radian' started by Peter Eriksson, Jan 13, 2013.
Great info i will try this for sure
That is pretty high on stability, wont that result in humming issues? Like it tries to compensate big time to keep it level
With radians disabled the shake is gone, with the radian gain roll @80 the shake is gone....
I think the disturbance on the video is me shaking with my fingers ( freezing) and going to fast i descent?
Current Gyro settings on CS6 with GH2 and Xoar 14x5
Gyro P 110
Gyro I 80
Gyro D 2
Dyn stab 75
Acc Gyro Factor 27
Acc Gyro Comp 100
Main I 40
Gyro Stab 5
Or maybe something moore to change to get i like a tank?
I have put foam inbetween the cs gimbal and the cs frame to stiffen the plate up and to limit the pendelum effect, also zipties to make the 6 red orings stiffer
Cannot see the video, Peter. "The creator of this video has not given permission to embed it on this domain."
Are you descending vertically into the copter's column of "dirty air" caused by the downwash?
Try now, password asd. I removed the embed feature.
No, i´m descending moving backwards. I think with theese settings and the radians i have never had better performance when descending slow vertically through "dirty air"
You may want to take a look at your PID settings. Take a look at this spreadsheet on Google docs. It is probably a little outdated but gives some information on what others are using on a wide variety of platforms.
It looks like your I and especially your D setting are very low, ACComp very high. Might consider going back closer to standard and then re-tuning.
But overall the video looks smooth. As you noticed vertical descents are the toughest because you are going into the downwash of the chopper. Same thing happens on full size helo's.
Gary, i have looked throug that spread sheet in the past and it was a good source when it was updated.
I know theese settings are a bit extreme but i gives me a copter where after i realease input it slowly returns to level, really smooth flights and leaves the radians with smooth movements to work with to stabilize the gimbal..
Gyro D is one of the affecting this, acc gyro is to get the gyros back in line with the accelerometers, and from my looking at videos when adjusting i find that higer values makes it moore stable/smooth i used to fly with it @ 200 and i might make it higher again. And with lower GYRO I it also softens up the stabilisation.
Gyro I and D is as you say wery low and i think in wind i need to take thees up, but all this will be done on a setting for flying in wind and this one i will leave as is for calm days
Before radians this is what i used with good result
With the radians @80 this setup works good , i have tried with them higher (120) and different gyro settings (standards and others) but i always get jitter undependent of my gyro settings as long as the roll gain is higher than 90.
What would be bad with toose low number that i´m currently using do you think?
Not a thing wrong if they are working for you. Just an unusual combination. It the good thing and bad thing about MK. Good - Lot of ways to adjust. Bad - Lots of ways to adjust...
And send some of that snow to Colorado. We need it bad both in the mountains and out here in the high desert.
Yes, that is one of the down side with mk, there is one million combinations.
Ill be happy to ship some of that snow, will email work
well well, still have micro shake and i will continue in the roll shake thread. Tried everything, stock settings now
This thread has got me to go back and look at my MK gyro settings and evaluate. It's always been a gray area to me. It seems everyone interprets the hard to understand German to English engineer wiki explanations differently. Here is what I've been running the last few months:
Gyro P: 100
Gyro I: 120
Gyro D: 25
Dy Stab: 70
ACC/G factor: 27
ACC/G comp: 32
Main I: 16
Gyro Stab: 6
These are fairly stock. Before I had Gyro D way down and it was very sloppy. In the quest for stable footage I'm going to experiment a little again. I'd like to get a good setting for light winds and a good set for stronger winds and then be able to select during copter initialization and go.
I should say this is a CS8 360 with Canon 7D 17-55 lens. I'll get some stock footage to go with the above settings and post..
I have been all over and mostly with good results but always need to be flying really smooth to get good video.
With my openpilot fitted qav500 i can fly like a maniac on a dirttrack an still have steadycam like video.......and just a couple of hours of tuning to a much cheaper price.
Check this out:
We have had a HUGE issue with our Radian's on cold days.
The issue is only with the TILT axis.
Every time there is an issue, we will loose static stabilization.... (it is not consistent)
Only occurs under 40F... and only after 2 to 6 min of flight. if I reset the Radian battery, no issues for 2-4 minutes.
Anyone else have thoughts ?
My issue with the radians was not to blame on the cold. It is just how it works, it tends to drift when flying hard..