Thank you so much, Gary! And no, those aren't tires. Those are 3x 1,25kg weights to simulate the weight of a RED Epic. Cheers David
I second the nomination for the Fat Tire Classic Copter. Whoa! The shock absorption those babies could do would make my landings look controlled.... Andy.
Andy they would make your landings flawless and a thing of the past since you wouldn't even leave mother earth.
It's the same principle Rolls Royce used in the early days of the RB211 -- they found they got tremendous fuel efficiency. Largely because they couldn't keep the RB211 prototype running! Andy.
Had my second flight today. Since the weather is quite depressing (rain mixed with snow), we had to fly inside a school sports hall. I uploaded some shots. Second Flight Password: cinestar test (sorry sound is wrong, forgot to remove it) There's a lot of vibration. I guess most of it is coming from the attachment of the gimbal on the vibration dampeners. I saw that there are some threads about this problem, so I will try to fix it next week. But if you have any ideas how to fix this issue, please write me Also the pan axis is not working smoothly yet. As soon as you pan quickly, the whole gimbal starts shaking. Lots of testing still to do... Cheers David
David looks pretty good. Getting the vibes out when hovering that close to the ground is nearly impossible. Not sure if you are running Radians or the tilt/roll output from the HF boards. Guess I should ask did you go with the HF boards in the final build? If it is HF then it looks about right until you start doing fine tuning in their software. And you need to tell me how you get that super quiet stealth mode with absolute silence and then the motor sound kicks back in
David: As Gary says, you're in "ground effect" so the Cinestar's sitting on top of a bubble of turbulent air caused by the prop downwash. You need to be about four to six feet off the ground to get above that ground effect. How did you get permission to fly inside a school sports hall? I wouldn't mind asking some of the local schools... Andy.
Hi, I updated the list of components in the first post to the ones I actually bought. I went with the Hoverfly Pro and Radian combination. I was flying once or twice roughly 6ft above ground (I think one one those shots is in the video). Still, when paning, there are severe vibrations. I'll go outside today or tomorrow to test it again, this time rising more than 6ft. Cheers and a nice Sunday David
HI David, Not sure if you still have the weight on the end of the landing gear but this is really the worst place for them to be. Can you attach them to a more solid mounting point on the gimbal? If they are still mounted there I would imagine that could be some of the panning problem?? Weight at the end of the (relatively) flexible landing gear can act like a tuning fork and setup an oscialltion. Best, Tabb
Hi Tabb, I removed those weights (I used them only to see if it will smoothly start with the weight of an EPIC). I saw on a quadrocopter.com youtube video, that they use two star shaped carbon plates mounted on top of each other to connect the gimbal to the Cinestar frame. Would you recommend doing so, adding four more vibration dampeners? Cheers David PS: I read on your Freefly Cinema website that you are using a new kind of video transmitter? Can you tell me which one? I need an HD signal, so I'm considering a Teradek Bolt.
Is the Graupner Electric Air Module2-14S the best way to get the voltage send from the HoverflyPro to my MX20? Would you recommend adding a dome like this to protect the electronics? And again... do you recommend adding four more vibration dampeners? Cheers David
David I was looking the Graupner air module also but never could find a review of it so didn't purchase. Nice find on the dome. With the HF boards how would you fit the dome under the CS battery tray? Lot of folks simply use a shower cap for wet weather operation.
I'm making a tray on a mill for the HF board and the receiver which be put below the battery tray. The dome should cover everything (even slightly the ESCs). I think it should be possible to attach it with velcro on the booms.
David, take a look over on MultiRotorForum. I have seen several posts for a company that is making HF enclosures.
Hi Gary, could you maybe post a link to those threads about the enclosures? I couldn't find them. Cheers David
Start here and expand your searching. https://www.mikrocontroller.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&&cPath=86&products_id=726 I think I have seen multiple discussions.
I realy hate when ppl think that we would suggest that buy 80 instead off 60 just to earn more. I think we have enough practise and knauledge that if we say 80 is better that we know what we are saying. 40 amp esc would not last 4 minutes with cs8 with red in temps aorund 35 deg celsius outside. ESC would overheat and go failsafe or even explode. Esc are mostly a conversion from plane esc to multirotor and no plane has 50+ throtle for duration off 10 minutes. So they overheat in hot weather cause off not enough cooling. This is why we say 60 or 80 since they can handle a lot more. And we tried them all on oour kopters.