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Discussion in 'Cinestar 8' started by David Kellermann, Nov 12, 2012.
Thanks for the info, Gary.
I'm in Canada. And no, no hussles at all from overseas. When it gets shipped EMS or exxpresspost no duties no tarif.
From the US yes they ding me to the fullest.. Also any shipments thru UPS, FEDEX, TNT, DHL I pay for custom fees plus brokerage fees. That's why I try to buy my stuff overseas and sometimes UK prices are murder. So I am stuck ordering from Quadrocopter.us
Kopterworx prices are cheaper than north America prices even with the Euro exchange.
So, If the BL-CTRL is rated for 35amps cont./ 40amps burst then those motors (KW10) should work. right?
Max thrust on those motors is 3000/3300gr. So I was thinking the MK stack should work here?
What do you think Josh?
In theory it should work... however I was never seeing more then 18amps drawn from my setup and I was running into all sorts of over-heating issues... even if it was only 70-80* F outside. I just think they need to figure out a better way to cool the MK BLs before using them at the higher amperages.
Thanks for the reply Josh. I gues I should invest in some heatsinks.
I have a choice of using the WKM or the MK stack.
I prefer the MK really, but the WKM is more reliable when it comes to I2C problems.
I can also use Rusty's I2C Isolator.
The temp issues I was seeing were with the heatsinks installed. On a few flights I was in the 105-110*C range on the BLs!!!! I very quickly landed at that point.
I recently had a similar problem on my MK Hexa which uses RC Tiger MT2814/10 (710kv) motors. I say 'recently', but it was back in the summertime when it was 90+ degrees F here in Tennessee. I landed, too. But on subsequent flights, I found that I am getting i2c errors.
It is a major undertaking to de-solder and re-solder each BL from one of those MK PDB's. I have wondered if a better method might be to heat shrink the MK BL's, except let the heat-sinks extend through the heatshrink. Then, mount them out on the end of the booms, zip-tied to the space between the two motor-mount clamps. I have one of Rusty's i2c Isolators that I could then use, since the scl/sda connection would have to be extended from the MK FC all the way out to the end of the booms.
(By the way, Josh, I am following your thread regarding the i2c converter with great interest! Please keep up the good work!)
How do you mount motors with 2x 25mm spacings on the Cinestar motor plate (25mm and 19mm spacings)? Do you drill the additional holes?
Also, does someone in Europe want to sell their "A rather good guide..." DVD? Shipping from the states takes probably pretty long in Christmas time.
Yes you would have to redrill the 19mm holes to 25mm so the KW motors will fit.
DC That's a good question and I sent it over the Lanza at Kopterworx to get an answer.
How about using your real name here on the forum? Seems to cold to call you DCDK
I already got an reply from Kopterworx:
just drill 2 holes. Its save and we all have like that.
With Best Regards
And yes, I'm gonna change the name
Bit more clarity from Matjaž
im making like that.
im using 2 motors mounting carbon boards. I rotate them 180 degress and screw them together.
Now u can dril 2 more holes and everything will perfect match.
Unscrew them and repeat on rest of motor mounting plates.
Easy and fast.
With Best Regards
Does someone, who is using the HoverflyPRO, know how to attach it to 6s batteries? The specs say that it can't handle more than 17v, but if I power it using a 6v UBEC, I'll loose the voltage information.
Saw you got an answer from Al at Hoverfly. He wrote:
"Ok first you need to power it with 7V from a BEC but yes you will loose battery sensing.
We recommend that you stay below 17V because the regulators on the PRO will get warm beyond this. However it can handle 6s (25.2V fully charged) but you will need to add a small heat sink on top of the regulators. You must be careful not to short the capacitors on either side. You can try this and measure the temperature. Make sure you are below 60C. HOWEVER, our spec is 17V so you are on your own with this modification. Several other users are doing this without a problem."
While you would need the BEC you might want to forego the battery level issue by buying an external battery sensor like this one http://www.amazon.com/Integy-C23212...56536420&sr=8-5&keywords=lipo+battery+checker which can be set to various trigger voltages. Works well and I can hear it out to a couple of hundred feet. If you are flying without video or goggles is a great thing to have.
Or check into what is available from the maker of your flight transmitter. Most have add on modules that give a full range of sensor checks. Example my Graupner MX-20 would have voice alerts with the installation of some of the modules they offer.
My thinking lately is to power it with a separate small 3s or even 4s lipo. This way, even if you lose a cell it will still power the board, and you'll see the pack voltage. Then use Gary's suggestion for the main packs.
I have been using a CC BEC to power the HFP off the main packs, but I've had enough BEC's go bad to think this is not a great idea. Losing power to the board in-flight would be pretty tragic, I imagine.
For now, I'll add some copper coolers to the regulators. In February, I'll probably go for Gary's idea.
In the manual of my ESC by Copter Deluxe is described how to program the ESC (unfortunately only in German):
They say that you should disable the brake. But if you follow their instructions, it seams that the brake is enabled (the motors stop immediately after removing the throttle). The motors should not do that, should they? I guess it's just an error in the manual, but I still wanted to check...
hope you all started well into 2013. I was shooting two short films, so had no time to continue working on the Cinestar.
Today, I tried again to fly it, using some batteries as weight to simulate an attached EPIC.
Like my friend Janosch wrote in this thread, we originally had the problem of the octocopter flipping. The easy fix was to turn the Hoverfly Pro right side up. But, unfortunately, a new problem occurred. When trying to increase the throttle (octocopter still on the ground), it starts to wobble. The wobble does not change with changing the gain value on channel 5 (the gain value changes within the Hoverfly software).
Could it be a problem with wrongly programmed ESCs? Any ideas how to fix it? Or is there someone living in southern Germany or within a 400km radius who has experience with Cinestar and Hoverfly products? Or can someone recommend me a company offering flight courses and help fixing octocopters?
PS: I bought myself a Blade mQx... so much fun
Problem solved We updated the HoverflyPro to the newest firmware and recalibrated for acceleration and temperature. Now, we have to map throttle on the MX20 to start at the lowest position (not on the middle position), to get a smoother control. Any ideas how to do so?
Also... does someone know how to exchange the functions of the left stick on the MX20 with the right stick (throttle is on the right side right now)?
The stick change is on the Base Model setup screen. Change the "Stick mode" from 1 to a '2'.
On the HF's there is a procedure in the manual for ESC adjustment.
18.104.22.168 ESC Calibration
Once again, it is best to follow the instructions in your ESC manual to perform this calibration. However, it is critical that you perform this
calibration on ALL of the ESCs in your system. The HoverflyPRO has a “all at once” ESC calibration feature. Follow the steps below
assuming your ESC has a throttle calibration mode.
ESC Calibration Procedure
1. Turn on your transmitter.
2. Move the throttle stick to full (all the way up).
3. Connect the battery to the aircraft.
4. All of the ESCs will beep to indicate they are in programming mode (the beep will only be audible when connected to a motor).
5. Once in programming mode, exit programming mode by moving the throttle back to idle (all the way down).
6. Wait for confirmation that programming mode has been exited (usually a series of beeps when connected to a motor).
7. Disconnect your battery from the aircraft and then turn off your transmitter.
8. All of the ESCs are now calibrated for the throttle range of your transmitter.
Also make sure that your 'aircraft' type in the MX-20 is an airplane and not a helicopter. Should see a small airplane on the MX-20 main default screen and not a heli.
That should get your throttle issue fixed. If it doesn't then we can do some more trouble shooting.
And if those round things are tires then you win all of the prizes for the largest tyre's, kind of a 'Fat Tire Classic Copter' or FTC squared...