Hi Everyone I am in the process of building a CS8. I am at the point of inserting the booms into the hub for the first time, or the secondish chapter of Andy's DVD guide on disc 2. The bolts on the inner boom clamps are protuding the top plate by 4mm, in some cases these are going to foul the capacitors which are already glued down. Does this sound right? If so what should I do. Get shorter bolts? Space the power dist board up further? Thanks Sam
Are you using the plastic M3x15mm Standoff under the PDB? That should lift the board high enough to clear everything.
Hi Sam: Firstly if it's not too much trouble, would you be kind enough to change your user name to your real first name and last name, please? The reasons for this (and how to do do it) are explained here: http://forum.freeflysystems.com/index.php?threads/real-names.497/ Secondly, can you use remove one of the bolts and measure it's length in mm. Do not include the head of the bolt -- it should be 40 mm. Thanks Andy
Yes, Ill change my username. 40mm bolts and 15mm standoffs, so I guess my caps are just sitting in the wrong spots. I have attached photos of the problem (bolt not all the way tight. It is the same on ESC's 1, 3, 5 and 7 on the inner CAP. Can someone tell me if their Caps sit directly above some of the bolts? If so how much clearance do you have? I think I might have to take it off and reposition with silicone again. Thanks
Thanks! Hmm. I don't see any images, I'm afraid. See the image below. There's some parallax because I couldn't get low enough with the camera, but I'd say the clearance is 4mm or thereabouts. Edit: Ohhhh, wait a minute...this is my RTF and QC added a small piece of plastic tubing below the PDB as a shock absorber (at least I think that's why they did it). You can see it at the base of the plastic standoff. Even so there'd be 2 - 3 mm of clearance. While your at it, you might want to make sure the caps are lying flat on their sides and firmly secured to the PDB with hot glue (or black goop that seems to be used by MK). Andy;
Sorry forgot to upload. Yes I thought about spacing it up with some pvc tube but it would only help and not resolve.
Here's the image from my kit C8. You can see the screw comes up the side of the cap. Not quite sure why the caps on your PDB/Bl-Ctrl boards appear to be positioned differently? Hope this helps Andy.
Thanks Andy. I've reglued the 4 problem Caps. I think what I did was squeezed the two caps towards each other when gluing in an effort to make the glue have more contact. Anyway problem fixed. I'm sure I'll be back with another question at some point.
Could someone please tell me or a photo of the flight control and navi boards. Im just trying to work out which orientation the 10 and 6 pin ribbon cables (grey with one red wire? Thanks
See the image below, Sam. Be sure that the boards themselves are oriented as shown. I've marked the cables 10 and 6 to show which ribbon cable goes where and the red arrow shows where the red stripe should go. If you look closely I've daubed cheap red nail varnish on the ribbon cable plug and the header on the board to make it easier for me to reassemble things. Hope this helps. Andy
Thanks Andy I passed the "smoke test". My LEDs didnt turn on but I guess ill work that out. Any ideas. I assume there could be a software setting for this...
Hi Sam: It's always good to pass the smoke test and very bad to fail it! First I'd stick a voltmeter across the point where you're getting power for the LEDs and confirm that there's no voltage there. If there is voltage then the issue is with the wiring out to the LEDs -- has that been tested just using a 12v supply? (Presuming, of course, that the LEDs need 12v rather than some other voltage.) Then I'd start working backwards towards the LiPo, so to speak -- for example, if you're using the Extension PCB, did you make the necessary changes on the Output tab in MK Tool to switch the batteries? Have you set the voltage warning in MK Tool as well? Hope this helps. Andy.
Thanks Andy. I will keep following you DVD through and look at the LEDs then. Theres no power at the output of the extension PCB. Do I still need to downgrade my MX-20 to the 1.003 or does the latest V1.126 work?
Hi Sam: OK. How about input to the Extension PCB? Any LEDs illuminated on it? Where are you getting for it from? You know, I don't know whether V1.126 works OK -- the issue I had (back in the middle of this year) was that I couldn't get to set SUMO 12 on the MX-20. I suspect it might be a case of trying it and being prepared to revert back to 1.003 if you do have that issue. Please let me know what you find out. Andy.
I'll give 1.126 a go considering im my mx-20 came shipped with 1.008 so I already need to downgrade. I'll let you know what happens.
The latest version will work fine. Just make sure you update all of the components, TX, RECV and the Voice Files. Forget even one and you will get very frustrated very fast And when you get to the update step for the MK stack update to the latest software version there so that it all works together.
Thanks Gary. Seems to be working fine so far. Does take a while to do all the updates. I'll keep working through Andy's DVD. I tell you without the DVD and this forum....
HI Sam I just finished my Cinestar 8 build. Quadrocopter told me not to downgrade the MX20 as the fixes have all been addressed. I didn't downgrade it and it seems to work like it should. If you need any help troubleshooting your LED lights let me know. Most likely the problem is on the PC extension board with all the little components that you have to solder on it. I got all my info for it here http://www.mikrokopter.de/ucwiki/en/ExtensionPCB. If you need to know voltages on a known good board just email at dking@aii.edu