Hi Billl, It turned out to be related to the way I had balanced the roll... mainly in that I hadn't. It is holding pretty well now, though I'm also realizing that the operation of this is closer to a steadicam than simply picking one up and running around. I have two 5206's on the pitch, though I only have one connected until I get a y-cable. It still holds quite well, I just can't jerk it around wildly like I've seen in some of the test videos. An additional note, I can't imagine balancing this without using the stand I picked up from famoushobby. If anyone is converting their cinestar or building one from scratch, I highly suggest it. You can certainly DIY something instead, but a stand is a necessity. I have attached my screenshot to give an idea of my settings. Here is the setup: Camera: 5D MK3 with 17-40mm 4L Yaw: RCTimer 8108 Roll: RCTimer 8108 Pitch: 1x5206
Did you get your pan fixed? If the pan keeps on moving around the click on the INVERT button for the yaw. Bill
I did, the roll not being balanced was putting a lot of strain on the pan as well, and it would lose its grip. Now it is just a lot of fine tuning to get things perfectly settled.
Hi all got back to this forum after some time and so much has changed so i have a lot of doubts. i am using 5208, 150t for roll and tilt, for a converted freely gimbal, and plan on using canon 7D/5D with 17-40L would i be ok, or am i too far behind in technology I am using the Alexmos V3, two axis controller. when i move it around with my hand, all seems well so should i be worried when i put it on my Large Hex using only one motor per axis. If all is well, i want to order the 3rd Axis, could someone suggest a motor for 3rd axis that would be good for the Alexmos V3 thanks in advance. Ramesh
Ramesh, my suggestion to you would be to use both of your 5208's on your tilt axis, and get two 8108 motors, on for pan and one for roll. If you already have the two axis built with the alexmos, I'd try it out first and see how it works. If the 5208's are working just fine, then I would suggest one 8108 for pan.
HELP! I have just converted my gimbal to brushless too using alexmos simple bgc with 3 axis extension. Roll and tilt work fine but pan is causing problems. I have it set up on the original reduction drive belt. It is behaving very strangely. It seems to do something different each time i move it depending on how fast and how far i move it. On the whole though it... -always pans in jerky movements -massively over compensates on the pan axis ( the gimbal rotates the wrong way about twice as fast as any external input).. when I hook it up to the gui the compass dial detects the over reaction and the dial spins accordingly as opposed to the pan and tilt which adhere to the horizon as they should. The gimbal keeps slowly panning in the direction it has compensated. (if i pan the base plate left, it will over compensate right and then keep slowly moving even when i stop rotating the base plate. -when i stop the gimbal from panning with my finger it just 'bounces' off my finger and starts panning the other way.. I can bounce it back and forth by stopping it as it moves. so far i have done the following to try to stop these reactions.. -perfectly balanced the gimbal on every axis including pan. -tried inverting pan axis -re calibrated gyro and accelerators -fiddled endlessly with pid settings but always has same affect. -reduction belt is tight any suggestions?? I'm getting desperate! completely run out of ideas!
HHMMMM. On the RC Settings tab check the speed mode not the angle mode. Make sure Follow mode is on for yaw. Bill
thanks bill but no such luck so far. haven't got any rc input setup on yaw yet. can you remember what pid settings you had on yaw when you had this kind of belt driven setup on yaw?
How you control the yaw then. Have you the 3rd axis ext. board? Yes, yaw= P=11. I= 0.04. D=9. power=140 I hope this helps but not PID's are the same. And I keep the poles the same. mine is 14. Bill
WOW bill our numbers are WAY different. Roll/Tilt 8108 - Yaw 8017 Roll P-20 I-0.11 D-18 Power-170 Pole-42 Pitch P-10 I-0.11 D-8 Power-160 Pole 42 Yaw P-22 I-0.11 D-20 Power-180 Pole 24 Gyro thrust is at 70 Things are going fairly smoothly now, still need to balance the pan better as i have the throw extra weight on the from yaw cage as i have the gimbal as far on the pole as possible, But my issue now is on yawing I lose quite a bit of roll. Could it be my PIDs or should i do the advanced calibration again.
No Paul the PID's wont fix it. You need to check everything that they are leveled. Take a look at these photos. Take your time and make sure they are square.
Hi Eric Raum, thanks for the encouragement. Ok... but i have tried to figure out this aspect of two motors on Tilt, but still have not figured out how to synchronise the two motors on tilt, so i did not go for that option, But i would like to do that. Only thing is up to now, i can't figure out the explanation given by some guys on how to do it i meant the poles alignment really wish someone could put up a video. or at least a couple of images to explain it. or i must be real dump... just can't figure it out... one explanation said to take one motor to extreme and them power up the second motor. but a brushless motor does not have and extreme... i thought only servos have extreme positions. so i am totally at a loss... need some HELP in that direction Ramesh
HELP still on my freefly converted to brushless gimbal in two axis only. i just added the third axis to it. and using the original Radian with the servo and belt but something is not ok i have programmed the Radian for PAN 1. put a 3 posn sw on a channel for Mode and and another channel for Pan control (Rudder) 2. So with the mode sw off, and on power on, finally the orange light is ON solid and the green light after rapid blinking becomes slow blinking 3. now when i put the Mode sw to next position, the green light should become solid, and pan should be in Stabelize mode. But green light continues to blink in slowly. 4. the servo does not fire up.... i can move the pan with my hand with little pressure, and its obvious, the servo is not active 5. Now when i put Mode sw to next position, which is Slew..... the green light becomes solid, and i can operate Pan with Rudder stick 6. When i was using the Radians previously on Roll and Tilt, i did not face this problem. When Mode sw was in Stabelize the green light would become solid. And i still have my gimbal with Radians on pan and tilt in working condition. 7. So has my Pan Radian got corrupted ANY INPUTS WILL HELP. I AM AT LOSS PRESENTLY AND TO WHY SERVO NOT WORKING IN STABILISE MODE I have checked my Mode we for operation in the Tx Monitor, and its working. Ramesh
whoop! mine works now! dont know exactly what the problem was but your pid's certainly helped bill! thanks! now for field testing..
Hi. I though i would just put up the three images of the Radian software showing the Mode Sw operating correctly for my Pan axis but still the Pan Radian is not activating the Pan servo when mode sw is put to Stabilise.... the green light blinks slowly on the Radian. Ramesh
Ramesh: From what you're saying (and from what I'm seeing) the Stabilized Fixed mode is not working correctly, but the Stabilized Slew mode is working correctly. I would try re-flashing the 1.03 firmware into the Pan Radian and re-setting it up and see if that fixes it -- if it does not, then there is a more fundamental problem. Certainly the images you posted show that the Radian is "seeing" the correct Mode control input from the receiver. Andy.
Warning, not for the faint of heart!!! If you get queasy at the thought of a macbook pro going up in smoke, don't click this link! Long story short, got my alexmos board from ARMBGC.com. Never again. Ended up frying my macbook pro. I contacted them, they accused me of being a Chinese spy for another company rather than hear me out. What other vendors have you guys used? I'm now in the market!
Holy carp, Batman.....it put the LiPo voltage back down to the USB connector? That's crazy. Did you have the MacBook Pro connected via the USB cable to the ArmBGC when you first had that capacitor blow up? What was the configuration then? I'm just trying to figure out whether, when the cap blew, whether it could have damaged the "mother board" as well? Also, when you were using the voltmeter, is it possible that you were shorting one of the USB pins against the outer metal part of the USB cable and that's why the voltmeter was only sporadically showing the voltage (and the red LED was dimming down?) Andy.
Sorry to here that Eric. Holy smoke. I get mine from, Flyduino.net, Viacopter and Flitelab I pay a bit more but I get the original board and support is there. Bill