Opened my box form Quadrocopter containing my C8 kit as well as man other "goodies". Im jazzed to sit down with Andy's DVD and run it against his parts list and make some accesories orders (Im a Amazon junky also Andy). One major discovery (unless Im completely blind) is I do not believe that the box of thousands of parts includes the OKTO XL Power Distribution Board!!!! Im looking through it again and again and I also have an email into Kyle at QC about this.. I hope Im overlooking it but honestly, I truly think its not here!!! Im sure you will all be hearing a lot from me in the coming weeks/months, hopfully not to much!! Dean R.
DOH!! found it! stuck in the bottom of the RADIAN GImbal box!!!! Well.. that makes it official.. Im OF to the races!!!!! (GULP)
Hi Dean: I hope you find the DVD useful. I was in your situation not long back (including looking for the Power Distribution Boards as I recall), so don't hesitate to post questions here. There are many folks on the forum who know far more about the subjects at hand than I do. I just happened to be sufficiently frustrated by the lack of cogent, centralized knowledge and have the wherewithal to do the DVD. The hardest parts for the DVD were to decide how to say "solder" (sold-err or sod-err?) and to try and suppress my irreverent, bizarre, Monty-Pythonesque sense of humor/humour for fear it would be misunderstood. All of the following are my personal opinions and are likely to be wrong. Bottom line: Ask on the forum before you think you might screw something up, not after! Carefree Mode? No. Don't. Motor Safety Switch: No. Don't. Waypoint flying: No. Don't. AeroSIMRC: Yes. Do. Lots. Blade mQx: Yes. Do. Lots. Hovering 6 feet above ground: Yes. Do. Lots. Oh well, I guess that obviates the need to update the DVD set right there, doesn't. Andy.
Thanks Andy, Ive worked on the motors and marked the booms this evening. Things are going well, I do need to make a little shopping list however: 1) I need to teach myself some soldering here my question is there a particular solder that is used? I dont want to get down to Lowes and not know. 2) Are most people using the spiral wrap to fold the motor wiring into the tube? For some reason to me it seems as if some type of solid tubing (heat shrink or otherwise) would work better there (and I think I saw pic on the "orientation" thread where someone had used a solid black tubing. Any popular alternatives I can evaluate? DVD is fantastic so far... Since up til today all I had was the BUILD document, right off the bat I noticed that you are going about things in a slightly different order, so I am adapting to that and referencing the document as I go.My hex driver kept rolling of the table til I saw your tape job, that alone makes the DVD worth it!!! Cheers, Dean R.
Hi Dean: For solder, I just use a flux-cored, lead-free Sn99, Cu007 1.0 mm solder. If you search for lead-free solder, you'll find it. Failing that, just flux-cored general purpose solder....Nothing exotic to it. It's just what the Brits call "bog standard" solder. Don't ask about "bog standard." I'm not sure you will want to know. For technique: search on Google for videos on "learning to solder" or the equivalent. Just remember: 1. Tin the tip of the iron to help the heat transfer. 2. Tin the items being soldered. 3. Use the iron to heat the objects being soldered and let them fuse together rather than to melt the solder on to the objects 4. Add a small amount of solder to create a nice shiny bead of solder. There may be other ways, but that's what I was taught. Just avoid using iron to drip solder on the objects/sealing wax approach. That's the recipe for a dry joint -- this may have been a good thing for those born in the 60's but is not a good thing when you're soldering/soddering. For the spiral wrap, don't fret too much about the details. Heat shrink on the motor wires will do as an alternative. The motive is just to give the motor wires a little bit of protection where they enter the boom. As to the order on the DVD, yeah, I had to make that up as I went along. I'm not sure there's a really "right" or really "wrong" way to do it. The hex driver rolling off the table on the floor drove me nuts! Andy.
Dean a good soldering station is worth its weight in Gold. Makes life a whole lot simpler. A Radio Shack soldering just won't cut it. See the list of suggested tools and tips posting where a whole lot of folks have listed their tool kits.
As well as a good visor with LEDs on it so you can see what you're doing if you're of "that certain age" when you need this kind of help! Also get a solder sucker and desoldering braid. It's the closest thing to the "Undo" option on a computer. Andy.
HI Dean If you are new to flying rotorcopters I strongly suggest the Aerosim software. It's done wonders for me and given me valuable experience. Here's some video's that might also help There's also a lot more videos at http://www.youtube.com/krausdiver
Im actuallly having a problem getting any of the technique results with my soldering, after having watched the videos which I though would set me on my way. One thing is, i think my lead-free, rosin core solder is thicker than that you are using on your videos. I have a real difficult time getting it to tin on even the iron (a nice Hakko) a any temperature setting. I dont get that instant tinning/melting result like you do in your dvd at all. I think i need to find a better solder or at least a thinner wire, anyone have a specific link to a brand like the above? i looked up what I bought and attempted to use: http://www.homedepot.com/buy/oatey-4-oz-lead-free-95-5-rosin-core-solder-53177.html pretty discouraging to be hung up on THIS step but im up for learning as I go. While we are at it, any recommendations on small bench testing kits? I know Im gonna need one before I even get too far into the LED lights. I sure feel like I have accomplished very little so far Thanks, DeanR
Dean this type of solder Qualtek is better suited to use on electronic components. I wouldn't use the stuff from Home Depot, maybe Radio Shack, but no HD for soldering electronic parts. When you say bench testing kits are you talking about a variable power supply? If so I really have been happy with a Mastech HY1803D. Goes to 18v. Won't run the motors on a CS8 but for all of the various testing of components that need power, powering the copter for build testing including servos or anything else it has done the job at a reasonable price. Check the Tips and Tricks section to see some suggestion on things to buy that will make the build easier.
I know this is a different price league, but I just got one these for some additional bench testing I want to do. It outputs 0-16v at up to 60 Amps: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/BK-Precision/1900/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1eVl7qn3gsJbOc1oRF1lX Do NOT use this for first-time testing a build -- or current limit it to a very, very low current.... Andy.
Gary, I DId check out that thread (I go back to it very often hahah) and bought what you had recomended, I even found one used on amazon. I'll order the solder you mentioned today, while I wait I can be flying my Blade around the house
Or make the obligatory run to Fry's Electronics, Radio Shack or the equivalent. Or talk the the avionics guys where you fly to roll some around a pencil.
Hi Guys, I would strongly recommend using a solder with lead for this type of work. The lead free stuff is a nightmare to work with IMO. This is what we use at the shop: http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-...&ie=UTF8&qid=1361653998&sr=1-2&keywords=63/37
Totally agree with Tabb. You need a much better soldering station and more heat to work with the lead free stuff. About 50C higher on the heat range so a good soldering station is a must. And a bit less expensive.
Hey all, so I'm tooling around the forum looking for help on waypoint flying when I saw Andy's suggestion to avoid it. I'm gathering that there's a school of thought out there that just says not to try it? a) why the reservation? b) are there any good waypoint tutorials out there for the Cinestar 8? thanks