Some are from the original cinestar, and some are custom made, and some were sourced locally. I sent you a message with more detail.
Matt, Very nice pan axis belt drive...I want to go that way too. Please consider sharing the McMaster-Carr part numbers for your various pulley/belt combinations. Many thanks!
Hi guys, I made my Pan-Pulley with 2 pieces of 2mm alu plate and the rest old FF spare parts.. But I still have a problem, tuning the bugger.
The 36 tooth pulley is the main one I use found here. Going with a smaller tooth count will increase torque, but will also increase the chances that motor cogging will cause problems. I tested the 30 tooth pulley on pan with the 5208 motor, but I could feel the magnets ever so slightly when tuning. The belts will vary by application. Depending on how you mount the motor you ay need a different size belt than the ones I used. The roll and tilt on mine both use this one. If I remember correctly it's actually the same size as the original servo pan belt. The pan needed a longer belt which is this one. Mcmaster has lots of different sizes of the belts to choose from in both Neoprene, and Urethane. The urethane seems identical to the original freefly type of belts and work very well. I used a neoprene one on the pan because it was slightly more difficult to get the pulleys perfectly aligned and occasionally the belt would rub on the lip of the metal pulley causing it to squeak with urethane.
Alex is planning to automate the tuning more in the future, but he's working on a more powerful board for much larger cameras first.
I'm the latest to jump on the brushless bandwagon and have a question that was asked earlier but I didn't see a reply. I'm converting a CS8 with 3-axis Radian system to 2-axis brushless with Alexmos board. The last things I need to connect before getting into tuning and balancing are the leads for Pitch and Roll. Do these connect from my pan Radian to the Alexmos board? If so, from what channels? I'm using a Sepktrum satellite receiver. How does this all get configured so it behaves properly and I can tilt remotely from my radio? Not asking for the whole tuning configuration - I have a bunch of info on that, just asking how to make these final connections so I can get to the balancing/tuning part. Thanks Dan
I started in the same way with the alexmos on 2 axis and radian pan. I opted to go with a full receiver so I could use alexmos tilt, radian pan, and a remote start/stop for the camera. If you go this route, you'll have to send the flight mode and pan signals to the radian. It makes for a little bit more wiring, but you have many more options for additional control on the gimbal. If I remember correctly the radian only has one aux output. If all you wanted was pan and tilt, you can specify the aux output channel on the pan radian to listen to the channel in the radio that you have mapped for tilt control. Just run the aux out from the radian to the RC tilt on the alexmos. Don't use the + lead though into the alexmos. Only use a ground and signal wire from the aux output on the radian to the alexmos.
Any PID to share for a beginner: 2 axis servo radian into a brushless conversion. I'm using sony cx760 and a Canon 5d2
So far I have used the PID's that I found earlier in the thread. I have 3x 5208's and the third axis add on board. I am flying a canon 5dmk iii with a 16-35 II. Pitch 18 0.12 23 Power 70 Roll: 21 0.21 36 Power 160 Pan: 20 0.2 30 Power 150 HELP: For some reason my pan axis turns slightly to the right by about 10 degrees when I boot up. It is quicker to react when in follow mode when I go right vs. left. Anyone know what this issue may be? Is there a trim option I am missing or something? I even hold it correctly in place, calibrate the IMU and it still favors right. Everything else works very nicely. Cheers!
Matt, or anyone running 4s, are you having any heat issues? My board heats up really quick. Power settings are low, 140, 80, 160 for roll, pitch, yaw respectively. Justin, is there a receiver hooked up? If so, you can trim in the transmitter. If your one manning it - in the newest firmware, under follow tab, yaw offset might help your issue.
Guys have you seen this motor I wonder if the current Alexmos and or Martines boards can handle this monster iPower Gimbal Brushless Motor GBM8017-120T Specs:Model NO.:GBM8017-120TWeight:318gramsCopper wire thickness: 0.29mmConfiguration:24N28PPre-wound turns : 120 turnsDC resistance (ohms): 18.8Motor dimension: 90*13mmMounting hole (Top/ bottom ) : 52,33mmCamera range: Red Epic,Black magic or similar size camer
Could those be the same motors the Copterkids are using? https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...493.1073741826.141876372534913&type=1&theater
DJ over at photoshipone has some of those on hand and is currently testing them with the alexmos controller. They're very larger motors, and quite heavy too from what I've heard. I'm hoping that development of medium diameter motors with greater depth, torque, and increased number of magnets are on the horizon. I do know that Alex is working on hardware to handle more powerful motors, and larger cameras. I'm not sure if they are going for dedicated motor drivers, or just a more robust version similar to the current models. Brushless gimbals are still very much in their infancy, and are only going to improve from here. @Ryan Those are the motors they use.
Found this over at rc groups: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1981785 Pretty cool to see.
I got three a week or so ago and just did some preliminary testing. Definitely powerful enough for +5 lbs cameras and Cinema lenses. All driven by Alexmos hardware. When his new larger board arrives in conjunction with these motors, I think most folks wishes are going to be answered
I've got three of these waiting for some testing: http://www.iflight-rc.com/product/iPower-Brushless-Motor-iPower-GBM-Motor-iPower-GBM5108-120T.html They say camera range: 800-2000g So a 500g bumb from the very popular 5208-150T, of course the new motors are also heavier. I'll try direct drive for pan with my converted CS gimbal and let you know how it holds. Payload is a GH3 so there might be a small chance to make it work
I haven't run into any heat issue with 4s. There are some heat sinks available that are self adhesive and perfect size for the alexmos motor drivers. The can be found here stateside.