Carey - we'll probably end up with the same config. We're going to test a few different LiPo scenarios for best size/weight ratio.
Sounds good Drew, thanks! i look forward to seeing the different configurations as these puppies start to roll out.
I have the system all mapped out in my head but we all know once they arrive - our "map" will totally change and we'll rework everything! I appreciate everyone's insight, very helpful in getting all the pieces to mingle!
Here is what we will be recommending: On the handles Small HD DP4 with 2 Canon LPE6 USB power from SmallHD to Teradek or Paralinx via USB cable we will have available.HDMI Cable from camera to smallhd - Will be available in our storeOn the Gimbal Freefly 4s 2.6Ah batter to power Gimbal Adapter for D-tap to our Freefly Battery (to power follow focus, etc) so you can run a secondary pack to power accessories. This setup works well, is extremely lightweight and cost effective but it does require the user to do some learning on proper battery handling procedures. Hope that helps! Tabb
I was under the impression that the Teradek Bolt required at least 6V. My understanding is that the DP4 only puts out 5V. I'm certainly not an expert on this, but isn't underpowering something by even 1V outside of it's tolerance bad for the electronics? I hope I'm wrong because I'd like to have the option of a Teradek Bolt.
Just looking at the Teradek website - their tech specs state 6V minimum. I am not as familiar with the Teradek, however, I do know that the Paralinx takes 5V max.
HI Chuy, While the Teradek website does state 6V minumum input for their Lemo DC power input connector we have found that the unit functions well when powered with 5V via the USB connector.
Thanks Tabb, this info helps heaps. And of course the more you can supply necessary/proven accesories cables the easier for all of us newbies cheers wes
Brandon, there is a c-rating on every lipo for charging and discharging. In short it says how fast you can charge or discharge the battery. So increasing the mAh doesn´t necessarily mean increasing the charge time. Guys, as Tabb outlined yesterday, please do some reading on how to proper handle LiPo Batteries. Most people that have to do with RC are familiar with it, but you really need to know, otherwise the worst case is they may catch fire. This is not just an extremely rare case. You can try a google search for "lipo fire" and will find quite some examples. Some rules are: You need to balance the battery when charging Unlike other batteries you must not fully discharge them!!! This in my opinion is the most crucial thing. While with other batteries people do exactly that because it is said to be best for the battery, in this case is the exact opposite.
All this info is great. Anyone planning on using an Epic / Scarlet and running the LCD to the handle with a 4ft LCD cable? Might remove one powered piece of gear vs a monitor and give control of the camera.
Guys, before you're hit with outrageously priced items such as a proper thin HDMI cable IDEAL for these gimbals, go over to Amazon and purchase this ultra thin 2.5 ft HDMI cable $15, nothing will work better for this application, the wire is as thin and flexible as the wire on a set of headphones. I use them and it's like the cable isn'ts there at all with no limiting interference. I'll also post this in movi accessories. HDMI - Type A-A (RED) http://www.amazon.com/SiliconMicroDisplay-ULTRA-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B006UJSAUW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2 HDMI - Type C-A (DSLRs) http://www.amazon.com/SiliconMicroDisplay-ULTRA-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B006VFQKVQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1
totally agreed! I use the Hypershop cables and they are basically the same and the same price. Nobody should be paying more than $15 for these cables! If your running Red or other with SDI you can use an $1 RCA cable to an SDI capable monitor or converter, which works great as well.
Not looking to make a boon off of hdmi cables ect. here guys. We've been through a slew of different types over the years. Have a nice weekend Greetings, Adam
All I would add is to make sure you have plenty of Canon batteries for the monitor, we have been powering our paralinx off our monitor in much the same way and it drinks though those things....that being said it is the AC7 OLED rather than the DP4 but still Cheers, Phil
Tabb, appreciate that update about cabling and power. Thank you. Also echo Wes's request about cabling and power packs for dummies. Adam, still very interested and I appreciate your help. Charles do you have an old 4ft cable left from RED one days? They only stock 6ft LCD at smallest anymore. I spoke with RED and they are looking into it and will keep me updated. Also love to be sure whether their standard non braided cables would be flexible enough - if anyone who has done so or form FreeFly could confirm, that would be very helpful. In the interim, I heard back regarding a custom quote for a 32" flexible custom cable that could be used for RED touch mounted to handlebars. Right to Right. $340. Found the guy through - http://www.alpine-electronics.com He has made custom cables for RED monitors in the past. Anybody who might be interested let me know. Also what do people make of the idea of running a Vmount off the handlebars, via a 20"cable Switronix plate (dual PTap) to my RED, with Dtap to RRMFF and Dtap to Paralinx arrow, combined with a custom cabled Redtouch...? Whole rig now just running on a V mount. This instead of 3 lipos + 2 canon batteries on the DP4? Thinking being a noob, there's likely some critical flaws in my reasoning? Best Lliam
Liam, that is the arrangement I was thinking I would try. As long as you have the cabling, I don't see why it wouldn't work.
I'm in for the flexible Red Touch cable Liam. I don't want to buy another small monitor if I can use my Red Touch. Maybe the guy will do a group buy discount?
Lliam, I like the way your "noob" mind works. It would be great to have Freefly weigh in on this concept. I am sure they've considered it.