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Power leads to power board connection came loose

Discussion in 'Cinestar 8' started by Cris Olariu, Jun 15, 2013.

  1. Dave King

    Dave King Well-Known Member

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    Cris

    Radio shack soldering equipment isn't going to cut it and will ruin the boards. I strongly recommend something along the lines of this http://www.techni-tool.com/272SO5111 and get something like Soder-wick, Tec-wik or chem-wik for soldering wick
     
  2. Cris Olariu

    Cris Olariu Member

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    Dave,
    Looks like that same exact WELLER WES51 model is being sold at RadioShack so maybe I'll just be able to replace it... Now I just have to find a store that will sell the wick ;)
     
  3. Gary Haynes

    Gary Haynes Administrator
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    Or check out the Hako FX-951. More expensive but has a wide assortment of tips and the stand puts the iron in standby when you aren't actively using it. Weller is good but I would suggest one where you get a readout of temps. I believe this is kind of the standard up at QC isn't it Adam?

    I have three tips

    T15-D2 - Used primarily for connectors like EC-5. Rather blunt tip.
    T15 -D12 - Chisel Tip My overall utility tip
    T15-BLL - Very fine point. Use it on SMD's and small components.

    When I started my build I knew a simple soldering iron wouldn't do it. Saw in some videos that QC was using them. Compared them and Weller and went with the Hako.

    http://www.amazon.com/AMERICAN-HAKK...r=8-1&keywords=hako+fx-951&tag=donations09-20
     
  4. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
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    Gary: To my knowledge it is the standard at QC. But the Hakko FX-951 seemed much better that the Weller I had (which was showing it's age). It heats up fast from standby and you can "hot swap" (and I mean hot swap!) the tips very easily.

    Andy.
     
  5. Gary Haynes

    Gary Haynes Administrator
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    Totally agree. The Hakko has much more power, like 2x the wattage, of the analog Weller. And when you compare the digital Weller to the Hakko the pricing get closer. i think the Weller WD series is more expensive than the Hakko. And tip swapping on the Hakko is quick even if you don't buy extra green sleeves.
     
  6. Cris Olariu

    Cris Olariu Member

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    That Hakko looks nice but also looks way pricey Gary... I was able to swap my RadioShack station to a Weller WESD51 (the digital version of the WES51 that you recommended). They were even nice enough to match their online price, so I only paid about $130 for the Weller (actually only added another $50 on top of my returned Radioshack station). I'll see how it all acts. Considering that when I first started my build last year I used a $20 RadioShack kit... I've come a long way. Hahaha
     
  7. Adam Paugh

    Adam Paugh Distributor

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    Yes, we've been through Radio Shack, Weller and Aoyue irons...then bought a FX-951 a couple of years ago. We own 8 of them now. I think they also offer the best accessory selection. Here is a good supplier for those irons/accessories:
    http://www.all-spec.com/brands/Hakko/

    Greetings,
    Adam
     
  8. Dave King

    Dave King Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info Gary and Adam. I could use a little smaller of a tip for the surface mount stuff. I just had to assemble a new PCB board for the orientation lights and it could have been a bit easier with a smaller tip.
     
  9. Cris Olariu

    Cris Olariu Member

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    Well... here's a quick update... got all the parts in, so this morning I started desoldering. It is now the afternoon and frustration is starting to kick in, seeing how I was unable to desolder a single CAP so far. They just won't budge. Not even a little bit. I was able to desolder some of the C&D wire connectors fairly easily, but the CAPs are really giving me a hard time.
    So I figured I'd take a break, then back at it. If I don't get it to work till Monday... I guess I'll have to see if I can send it in to QC and have them do it for me. But I really don't want to give up. Is it possible I need to heat the iron above 700F? I don't want to damage the controller, so I haven't yet raised it past that.
     
  10. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
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    Cris: Can you be more specific about what problem you're having desoldering the caps? Is it that you cannot get the individual leads to unsolder? Or have you removed solder and cannot get the caps removed?

    If it's the unsoldering problem, try and use the tip of the iron to heat both leads at the same time -- you'll have to hold the iron at a very oblique angle to the board.

    If it's the latter, check underneath the caps, they're usually glued to the BL-Ctrl to prevent flight vibrations from fatiguing the leads -- you've got to break the cap free of the glue -- be careful though you want the cap to come free from the glue, not the glue to come free from the board as there might be components underneath the glue that will be damaged.

    Hope this helps.
    Andy
     
  11. Cris Olariu

    Cris Olariu Member

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    Andy:
    I have successfully unglued the caps without removing other components. There is some residue that I would ideally want to remove to be able to glue other caps there once I get the controllers onto the new board.
    The problem I'm having is with the unsoldering the leads. Once I remove the solder and clean it up, should the leads at least wiggle a bit? I can't get them to move at all.
     
  12. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
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    There's solder between the BL-Ctrl and the PDB that is hard to remove -- as far as I know the only way to get the caps off is to heat both leads simultaneously. Don't pull on those leads too hard though, otherwise you damage the pads on the PDB.
    Andy
     
  13. Cris Olariu

    Cris Olariu Member

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    Alright... I managed to get one out. But not without destroying the CAP first. :( The leads came out of the cap before they came out of the board.
     
  14. Dave King

    Dave King Well-Known Member

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    Cris

    You really can't reuse the caps IMO. What I do is cut the leads off the caps and that put the tip on the lead and pull it through. I then use a solder sucker on the residue that's left so I can have a hole large enough to put a new cap on. Even if you could reuse the caps they really aren't long enough once cut to reuse because you have to have enough lead to bend them at a 90 degree angle on top of the BL. Also be very careful with solder splatter its extremely easy to do and have a tiny piece of solder end up on one of 8 BL electronics.
     
  15. Cris Olariu

    Cris Olariu Member

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    Dave, I wasn't planning on reusing the caps, but it still freaked me out a bit. I was actually gonna ask if anyone tried cutting the leads before taking them out to make it easier. Since we're talking about this, I was planning to add coolers to the BLs on the side with the caps on (I already have installed coolers on the top). I think that will prevent me from bending the caps leads to place them at 90 degrees. Any ideas on what I should do about that? Maybe glue them to the coolers ( I have the aluminum coolers from QC)
     
  16. Dave King

    Dave King Well-Known Member

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    I thought about using the heat sinks but the guys I talked to at QC said that they didn't notice much of any difference to warrant the work to do it.
     
  17. William Johnston

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    I agree. I ran tests on the bench for a range of motor speeds and recorded the temperature at a fixed time after engine start. I did this before and after I affixed the heat sinks and I didn't see much of a temperate difference. (It was either the same or a degree different at each speed.) I recently busted up that power distribution board in a crash and I didn't bother putting heat sinks on it's replacement.
     

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