Hey all- For now, I've got a GPHero3 on my CS8. I've got a male micro HDMI coming out of the GP, adapted up to male mini HDMI and going into the converter. I've also got the 1.2 receiver (set to Bank B, channel 8?) plugged into the 7" monitor. Below is the rest of the way my system is set up and I haven't been able to get any signal coming through the 7" monitor yet (Just a blue screen and VIDEO1 up in the corner). Should I be seeing any LEDs on or blinking inside the 1.2 Tx (I'm not)? Does anyone notice any problems with my wiring so far? The ones I left blank (?A, ?B & ?C) I'm pretty sure I got right, but just looking for confirmation if you could. (A1-to-B4; A2-to-B3; etc.) Thanks a ton for all your help. Had this thing a couple months now and still can't get it all working right :| [using the Spektrum satellite, btw. When I get the missing info, will finish the diagram and repost in case it might be helpful to others.]
Hi Trevor: Nice diagram! What software did you use? Can you tell me anything about the vendor of the 1.2 Ghz transmitter at B? Knowing that will determine how to connect C to B. I suspect it is: 1. Black C to Black B, and 2. White C to Yellow B. If there is no additional socket on the 1.2 Ghz transmitter for power, then you will also need to connect 3. Black A to Black B to ensure both A and C really do have a common "Ground" (it's possible that they already do via the 5V BEC), and 4. Red A to Red B to provide 12V or so to the Transmitter. But don't connect it up as I describe until you identify the transmitter just to avoid smoke coming out of the wires. I note that you have the HDMI converter running off the same DC supply as the Radians and servos. You may have problems doing that as the servos (in common with all servos, regardless of brand) put a fair amount of electrical noise on the +5 volt line. The best thing to do is get a separate small ARCH/Recom DC/DC converter just to provide +5v to the HDMI Converter. Make sure there is again a common ground by connecting the ground pin of the ARCH/Recom to both the HDMI black wire and also to the black wire at A. Andy.
Thanks Andy ... for the info and the compliment to my diagram. I'm a graphic designer first, CineStar 8 builder ... thirteenth probably. I used Adobe Illustrator CS6 to make the vector diagram. Seeing as how I used your videos to build this thing, I'd be happy to make you any diagrams, should you have the need. The 1.2 transmitter is the lawmate that shipped from QC. Good tip on repositioning the HDMI converter. Would adding another Castle BEC inline (before the servos & Radian) close to the other one suffice for what you're talking about or is there a reason I should get the ARCH dc/dc converter instead? And do you know if there are any indicator LEDs that should be on if the Lawmate is functioning? It just gets hot, but I don't see any activity in there. trevor
Thanks for the info re: the diagram Trevor -- and for the kind offer to create diagrams! (I may well take you up on that!) Given that it's the Lawmate check out: http://www.readymaderc.com/store/manuals/lm1800.pdf You'll often find documentation for products on the product pages. It confirms the wiring: Video : yellow. Red : +ve power supply. White: audio. Black: "Ground" (there really is no "ground" on an aircraft -- just the -ve side of the battery). While you could use another BEC, typically those supply several Amps and are heavy that the Recom. Here's a link for a 12v "Traco Power" (that's just the brand name). Recom is also a brand name but tends to be used generically. The "Recom" typically only outputs 1A. The HDMI converter probably only needs 500 mA (guessing), so using a Castle BEC is way overkill. That said, if you don't have a Recom/Traco and want to get flying and you find that you're getting interference on the HDMI converter, then you can certainly use a 12 volt BEC. Andy.
Thanks again for all the help and info, Andy. Unfortunately, that just confirms that my wiring was correct. So there must be another reason I'm not getting signal to the monitor. I'll keep at it. Thanks.
Let's start diagnosing that then -- do you have any kind of camcorder that you can use to drive the monitor directly by hardwired cable? That will test the monitor.... Then try connecting up the HDMI from the copter camera directly (forget the HDMI converter and wireless link to the monitor) to the monitor. Then try using COMPOSITE video out from the copter camera (or some other source) and see if you can get a wireless link working. Verify that both the Transmitter and the Receiver are on the same channel! If there's something fundamentally wrong, those steps should help isolate it.... Andy.
I sent composite out of the camera to the monitor with success, but would need the right set of connectors to go straight from the camera's HDMI to the Transmitter, which I don't have...and will take me some time to fashion myself. The other thing is that I'm not sure what the default channel is on the TX when it comes from QC. The dip switches are hot glued over. On the receiver, there are two banks, A & B, and 8 switches to toggle per bank. trevor
Does your copter payload camera emit composite video? Or do you have a camera that does? I'm suggesting that you do this: Copter camera -> Composte video -> Lawmate Transmitter and then use the Receiver -> Monitor. I'd like to see if the Transmitter/Receiver is working without the complication of the HDMI converter. That's a very good question....you may need to contact QC and ask them to what channel they set the transmitter before they applied the goop. Or you can try working through all of the channels, but it will create an ambiguous situation if none of the channels work! Andy.
Andy- In a perfect world, all I'd do is work on the Cinestar. But alas, my parents were in town for 2 weeks and I was only just able to apply the things you were suggesting. (Btw, I misspoke on post #7 when I said, "need the right set of connectors to go straight from the camera's HDMI* to the Transmitter, which I don't have..." *I meant composite, not HDMI. Sorry to be confusing.) Going at it for 12 consecutive hours on my kitchen table, I had to fashion a couple different connectors to get the composite video to the Tx in multiple ways. The bummer is that it came with a connector that would have made it simple and easy, but the instructions I was following to get the HDMI converter routed to the Tx had me cutting those composite cables (picture attached) in the first place. So I had to go pilage the cables from the old VCRs in the house to make new ones. To be brief, I was able to get the monitor to flicker with a black signal when I would touch the antenna with my fingers in certain places. I've never seen a picture or color bars on the monitor coming from the Tx, but when I'd send it straight through the converter, it would be fine. Spoke with QC and they said that the default is channel 8 on the Tx, then they hot glue the switches. The schematic you sent me confirmed that setting (thanks again). They asked me if I had tried X, Y, and Z, all things I did attempt. At that point, QC told me to just send it in and they would look at it and test the Tx with their Rx, and my Rx with their Tx to isolate the problem. Bummer to be down this whole time; still have not flown the CS8 at 100%! Packed it up and am sending it off today. Andy, you've been insanely helpful. Thanks mate. Trevor
Also, I finished the gimbal wiring diagram according to the instructions I was following. As I was hooking it up, I did a number of tests and couldn't replicate the noise issue coming from the converter. That's not to say that I'm positive I won't see it when I'm flying, but I couldn't see it on the tests on the bench. Feel free to use or suggest edits to the diagram.
OK. Trevor. That's it. You're hired. That diagram is excellent. And yes, you're right. Since I started with copters, I have done more "radical cablectomies" (cutting apart perfectly good audio/video cables) than I care to remember. I now view cables with connectors on both ends as a viable source of connectors! I'm glad to be of help, but sad that you still had to send the kit in to QC. Sigh. I hate it when that happens but there those ghastly limitations to assisting folks merely by typing furiously rather than being able to look over someone's shoulder, suggest options, and take a quick dash into the local pub to contemplate the finer points of why things don't work over a couple of swift pints (I speak metaphorically when I use the word "couple" and possibly "swift." ) Keep us posted on what happens and what you hear back from QC please. Andy.
Sorry to revive this thread! Just got our Movi M5 and was looking to wire a go pro up for refrence for the Black Magic 4k (as I can't get to the SDI out on the side this is my only option). I have built a cinestar gimbal and from this I am assuming I can cut out the servos/radians and be ok yes?
Hi Ryan: Could you add a little more detail to "cut out servos/radians" please? I'm not quite sure what it is you're wanting to do and why. Andy.
Just got a Movi M5 and need a downlink for it. Using a 2nd Lawmate via HDMI to hook into a go pro for reference on our black magic 4k. We cant link into the SDI on the 4k due to design constraints. I ment cut the radians out of the wiring diagram as I wont even have them on the Movi.
HI Ryan, If I understand correctly, you are wanting to install a second 1.2 gHz transmitter on your kopter? You may find that this will cause signal interference as the 1.2 systems cannot be adjusted in sub-carries as the 5.8gHz stuff can. Greetings, Adam
Ryan, You could grab this cable and hack/solder the Video/GRD to the 1.2 Tx Video/GRD and bi-pass the hdmi converter all together...: http://www.quadrocopter.com/Iftron-H3-to-OSD-Cable_p_986.html Greetings, Adam
Damn. I already picked up all the parts to mimic the Cinestar and have em on my bench. Will that cable work with a Go pro?
Cable bought. Thanks Adam. I should have read a bit more on the cable, Know if it works with the Black Magic pocket?