/dist/images/branding/favicon

Making Servo Connectors

Discussion in 'CineStar FAQ - Tips and Tricks' started by Gary Haynes, Nov 28, 2012.

  1. Gary Haynes

    Gary Haynes Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2012
    Messages:
    5,211
    Likes Received:
    460
    I just splurged and bought the Deluxe Crimping tool from Hansen Hobbies. I've been buying all of my servo connectors and wire from Chris since I started my build last year. I had the lower cost crimpers but was never really happy with the outcome. So took the plunge and WOW these make perfect crimps. Tried it on 22mm, 26mm and 28mm wire and simply outstanding results. There were times with the cheaper crimpers that I actually took time to add a bit of solder to make sure I had a good connection. Those days are gone.

    Check out the video on his site at http://www.hansenhobbies.com/.

    Lesson learned...buy once, pay a little more for a quality tool.
     
    Steve Maller likes this.
  2. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2012
    Messages:
    10,383
    Likes Received:
    1,164
    Ain't that the truth, Gary. It took me a while to get there (slow learner?) but quality matters.

    Thanks also for the link. Looks like he's got some good stuff.

    Andy.
     
  3. Steve Maller

    Steve Maller UAV Grief Counselor

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2012
    Messages:
    3,981
    Likes Received:
    807
    Can this guy's rig be used to make JST connectors, too? It mentions them, but I am still suffering some PTSD from my failed attempts at using a sub-par tool.
     
  4. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2012
    Messages:
    10,383
    Likes Received:
    1,164
    I don't know about the Hansen one, but it's anything like the QC crimping tool, then yes, you can. You just have to be a little careful how you position the pin in the tool, otherwise there's a risk you crimp the "barb" that sticks out.

    What I find works best is to strip the wire, offer up the pin to the wire and then, using long needle-nosed pliers start the crimping of the larger tab just to the point where it holds the pin on the wire sufficiently well to get it into the crimping tool -- then look "over the far side" of the crimping tool to make sure that there's enough "stick out" of the pin to avoid damaging the locking barb, then gently squeeze the living daylights out of it! ;)

    It took me several trashed pins to get this technique down, but I figured I was paying my debt to society to learn how to do it....

    Andy.
     
  5. Steve Maller

    Steve Maller UAV Grief Counselor

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2012
    Messages:
    3,981
    Likes Received:
    807
    I know I speak for society when I say your debt is forgiven.
     
  6. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2012
    Messages:
    10,383
    Likes Received:
    1,164
    Thanks, Steve! It just pisses me to "waste" pins -- even though the cost is minimal. You should have seen how many EC5's I went through trying to learn how to make a Y-cable. Not a pretty sight.

    One thing I note that Hansen offers is some practice pins when you buy the deluxe crimping tool! Nice touch.

    Andy.
     
  7. Gary Haynes

    Gary Haynes Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2012
    Messages:
    5,211
    Likes Received:
    460
    Yes it will work with JST's. Similar design to the one at QC (didn't know they had one). I used to do it the way that you described Andy with a bit of a pre-crimp. Tried it the way that Chris shows in his video and won't need to do that step anymore. More speed, fewer steps. With the ratchet type tool it holds the pin while you insert the wire. Pretty neat.
     
  8. Steve Maller

    Steve Maller UAV Grief Counselor

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2012
    Messages:
    3,981
    Likes Received:
    807
    Thanks for the tip. Just ordered it!
     
  9. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2012
    Messages:
    10,383
    Likes Received:
    1,164
    Yeah -- he does make it look easy. What I was finding, using Chris' technique, was that it was quite hard to judge where the end of the bare wire was. Go too far and interferes with the latching mechanism, go not far enough and you don't get a good crimp. Hence the pre-crimp (a trick I think I learned from Kyle at QC).

    How do you judge the correct amount of insertion for the bare wire, Gary?

    Andy.
     
  10. Gary Haynes

    Gary Haynes Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2012
    Messages:
    5,211
    Likes Received:
    460
    When I insert I can feel the jacket hit the edge of the inner crimp area. Naturally stops. Might be tougher on 28ga but normal servo wire is 22ga and even on 26ga, which I usually use, you can feel it bottom out. Other method would be to look at how far back you need your grip of the wire. Looks like about a 16th of an inch from the exposed to the back of the connector.

    Only reason I don't like the pre-crimp with this tool is that I have gotten crimps that weren't clean. The part that goes around the insulation would fold over from the pre crimp rather than wrap around and look normal.
     
  11. Andy Johnson-Laird

    Andy Johnson-Laird Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2012
    Messages:
    10,383
    Likes Received:
    1,164
    Thanks, Gary. I think I might have given up too quickly on that technique.

    Andy.
     

Share This Page