Yes, the f2.8 IS USM. There's an HDMI and USB connector plugged in. If the camera body had to go too much further forward you could not fit the cables -- but the workaround is to add a small piece of self-adhesive lead tape (as sold in sporting goods stores to balance tennis racquets and golf clubs) to the front part of the lens barrel -- then you can shift the camera further back. Andy.
Thanks Andy. Was the camera balanced in that picture? If yes, were you using a lens hood and a filter on the lens? If not, there is not going to be a problem as I am going to use both a lens hood and a ND or protection filter. That should be enough to move the CG of the camera forward like the lead tape would. Thanks, Tuukka
Yes, it was balanced -- just so I could see how much room was available when it was balanced. It did have a lens hood on, but no filter. If you add the filter, you'll find you'll be able to move the camera back that much further. Andy.
My guess would be USB follow focus. I am using http://www.okii.net/product_p/fc1.htm for controlling the camera and focusing.
Hi Mike: Yup, Nicolas is spot on: Connected to an Okii Systems FC1 controller so I can start/stop recording and pull focus. Andy.
Andy, do you connect/disconnect the Okii on the ground, or do you have access to it in the air? I take it you’ve developed a favorable impression of it?
Hi Steve: I happened to be using it on the ground. Not sure it would serve any purpose in the air apart from acting as ballast! On the ground it's fine with these comments in mind: 1. To change the two batteries, you have to physically remove it from the MōVI, undo two tiny screws, and then re-assemble. The batteries last for about 100 hours, but you can be sure that they will die at the maximally inconvenient time. 2. The rotating central wheel is very slippery, so I've coiled some rubber bands around it as a quick fix so I can pull focus with one thumb without it skidding. 3. Mounting it on the MōVI required a custom mounting plate that I had to cut out of acrylic on my laser cutter. I can post an image of that if anyone's interested. 4. The focus-pull uses Canon's USB protocol so it moves the lens in discrete steps. For wide lenses this is not too bad, but I could see that might be an issue on long lenses where the "steps" would be visible. Andy.
#1 is a bit of a pain but I still like his device over the Manfrotto or other devices I have seen out there. #2 I have not had this problem but I might try it anyways. #3 I have one of these http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/s.nl/it.A/id.5212/.f attached the 1/4" 20 socket on the Okii controller and one of these http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/s.nl/it.A/id.7/.f on the Movi via the accessory mount http://store.freeflysystems.com/collections/movi-accessory/products/accessory-mount (BTW this fits the M5). I may put a small ball head (like the kind sold with Small HD monitors) in between to allow me to rotate the controller. For now it sits upside down accessible by my fingers on my right hand. I was using this for an entire day of live event shooting with no real issue but side ways or mounted to the handle itself would be more ideal. The RRS saves you from having to screw things to assemble. I have those parts attached to my monitors, my tiny ball heads and most of the small accessories I have so that I can have a quick assembly of my gear. #4 You will not get as smooth a focus pull as you might with a geared system but considering the weight and cost, this is a good compromise for me. It offers 3 step sizes. On the most fine step size it moves slowly but is rather smooth. I have found the #2 step size to be the sweet spot. From the facebook page for Okii, he is working on a wireless version.
This is great info. Is there a rumor that Freefly is going to come out with a wireless follow focus soon? Should we start one?
Here's the diagram for the 3mm acrylic plate that I used. Two boom clamps go through the two pairs of holes on the left. The left central hole is not presently used. The right central hole is threaded 1/4-20, so that a conventional 1/4-20 tripod bolt (with knurled head) screws through it and is captive. That's the bolt that mounts the Okii controller. The two boom clamps are mounted so that the Okii controller is mounted close to handgrip and rotated 90 degrees so that the record start/stop button is easy to reach with a thumb. Andy
Hi Andy, I can see that you have used a LiPo monito. Excuse my question but does that mean that there is no low voltage alarm at all on the MoVi (MR nor M5 ? Thanks in advance.
Salut, Cédric: There are three LEDs on the M5 that report the voltage, but there is no buzzer/beeper -- and I wanted to avoid the problem of forgetting to switch off the M5 in my workshop and then running the risk of overdischarging the LiPo. Regards Andy
Bonjour Andy thanks a lot for this answer, I will take care of this for my customers. (the cost of a LiPo alarm is really nothing respect to a MoVi, I will put one with each MoVi.)
Looks like a nice rig Andy, Do you need to re-balance the rig when you zoom in and out with the 24-105. Also curious if you use the IS function while using the Movi?Jeff
You do not need to re-balance to zoom but understand that when you throw the balance off the motors will have to work harder to keep things steady. I have tried it with the 24-70. With the motors working harder, the batteries will drain faster. I will not hesitate to shift the zoom but I try to avoid leaving it off balance for lengthy periods of time. I typically only do this when shooting live events where one cannot afford the time to re-balance. If the motors are already working hard to keep things steady because you are driving down a bumpy road, for example, the stabilization might not be able to do as good a job. There was some info on this forum about people using IS. It may fight with the stabilization of the Movi. Some believed it should not be used but others found no issue. Having no IS on any of my lenses except the 70-200, which is too heavy to use, I have never found the need for it. I did a quick comparison back during my brief ownership of the 24-105 vs the 24-70 long before I had the Movi and I favored the extra light afforded by the F2.8. You can see the results of this here. Keep in mind this was hand held shooting and while stabilization makes a difference here the Movi will take care of most of that for you so the added benefit of IS should not even be noticeable.
Thanks Andy, have you tried shooting raw on the 5D Mark III with the Movi 5? I have the same camera and use a Canon 16-35 II. I had the 24-70 but thought it was to heavy but liked the zoom range. Jeff
Hello, can any one tall me how do i operate de camera parameters like focus o diaf... and if the M5 suports an Nikon D7000