I just received some presents from Quadrocopter. Here's what I"m using Cinestar 8 kit with 500 mm booms - I couldn't fit the copter in my car even with the props off if I used 550mm. Tiger U5 motors with Quadrocopter heavy lift motor plates MK 2.5 Flight control board MK Double Quadro 2XL power board Brushless gimbal custom made by Bill Collydas This board comes with 10 guage power wire already soldered through both boards. It just needs a EC5 One thing I see right off the bat is that the standard 12mm standoffs that comes with the CS8 can't be used to mount the board to the Cinestar center hub because the thread is not long enough to go through both boards. IF you look between the two boards above you'll see a black sleeve that the bolt has to go through. I'm thinking of getting 12mm standoffs with female threads on both ends and then using seperate fasteners that will screw in to the standoff. One for the hub side, one for the MK Power board side. Unless I can find a 12 mm standoff that has long threads on it. Let the fun begin.
My Double Quadro XL is on its way, too! Are you going to use pigtails on the PDB or are you going to solder female bullets directly on it? The pads look like they have some solder on them already...I'm curious whether one should solder in between the boards for the lower 4 motors, or solder the pigtails onto the underside? Nice that the mains wire is already on there. I was actually thinking of running two wires off of there, as I'm going to split my LiPos onto small outrigger booms for the X8 to lower the CoG a bit, but I guess I'll run the LiPo leads by way of the splitter. Do you have the gimbal yet?
Pigtals. There's solder on one side of each board. I plan on soldering in between the boards. NO gimbal yet, soon
Congratulations Dave and Steve I have 5 questions for you guys: 1 isn't there a heat sink that goes between the 2 boards 2 Dave why are you planing to solder in between the boards is it not better and easier to solder the pigtails on the outside of each board ? 3 Dave I see you went with the U5 instead of the 4012 4 I guess that you can not separate the boards 5 Why did you guys decided on the 1, Double Quadro 2xL Combi, instead of 2, single Quadro 2xL Combi,
Jose at this time I don't know where to solder as the one side of the board has 4 small solder points on the pad. I don't know if its ok to solder on either side. IF there's a heat sink i don't see it. U5's are better made and built than the navigator series motors. I went with this board because it has a max capacity of 60amps per BL which I will need carrying a GAW of 25 pounds.
Eek those lower FETs are directly underneath the upper FETs (heat transfer) Dont know why MK would offer this setup. Heavy lift machines need controllers mounted out on the arms under prop airflow. Just think of those hot summer days. I would be terrified. Why not opt for the single 3.0 controllers and mount on the arm. One less overheating issue to worry about. Knowing the history of MK ESCs, they will overheat. http://www.quadrocopter.com/Single-BL-Ctrl-V30-2XL_p_1148.html
Hi Dave this is the picture I found where it sims to have a heat sink in between the boards kind of like Erkulles lll http://forum.mikrokopter.de/topic-post501426.html#post501426 MK V3 BOARD HERKULES 3 BOARD
Holger just responded to a few of my questions, this might help you Steve too. Does it matter which side of the pads you solder the motors to? No, you can use both sides. Dave King meinte It also appears that the buzzer is on this board? Is it really the buzzer? Just wanted to make sure if I need to hook up an external buzzer or not. Yes, the buzzer is integrated. Dave King meinte I also do not see heat sinks on this board at all. Is this correct? Does it not need any heat sinks now? Usually you won't need heatsinks. The big PCBs with 6 Layer copper acts as a big heatsink. Dave King meinte I also see a one wire connector soldered to the board, what is this and where does it go? That is for the LED switching Mosfet. Plug it into the OUT1 or Out2 of the FC and connect the LED light to the power board.
Dave trying here not to be a devils advocate but in Holger answer he said "Usually" hmmmm?? lets remember that MK developers as well as the testing been done with our good friends at QC up in Montana they have colder climate most of the year specially in the last 2 or 3 month that the boards came out, some of us live in hot humid or hot dry climates where in my case I have to deal with + or - 90F degrees and some folks in the south west of the US do 100F degrees, to me they should offer at least the option of an extra heatsink or with out, I guess it would not hurt the board or its performance if that was added Herkules lll board come with a heatsink from the manufacture
Jose I am not too worried about it because the U series/ U5 motors are more efficient than any other motor out there. If they say usually, its probably good for me. We'll see what happens.
Steve you'll find out that you need to order some fasteners to secure the board to the hub. Since the board is 0.35" in width you can't use any traditional female to male standoff that are small enough in OD but yet give you threads long enough to go through the board. You'll find out that you really can't go with a bigger standoff in diameter because a 6mm will just barely get by without touching the caps. I just spent a couple hours measuring and figuring out what I'm using. From Mc Master Carr I ordered 1/2" long nylon 6/6 threaded hex standoffs. They are 3/16 in diameter and accept 4-40 screws. I could not find anything in nylon that was metric. I ordered 4-40 screws that are 9/16" in length to secure the board to the top of the standoff. I ordered 4-40 screws that are 1/4" in length to secure the hub to the bottom end of the standoff. I went with nylon because I didn't want to use aluminum or any metal type of standoff as I didn't want them to contact any electrical part of the board. I guess I could have went with aluminum standoffs and nylon washers but I thought this should be fine.
Dave: I would have thought that MK would have an answer for the mounting of the boards? I presume you searched the .de forum? Andy.
I have some Xoars on the way. Probably going to go 15” on top and 14” on the bottom in my X8 coax config. But might end up with CF in the end. Looks like that’s what all the big boys are using.
Also, it seems 4s is being used during most of the testing. Very curious to see how the new mk ESCs hold up on 6s in real heat with very little airflow running non Holger approved motors.
Just waiting for a few parts and I should have it all together this weekend. Hopefully by then it will warm up a bit. Todays high is only 2 degrees. I've decided to use all metal clamps for the hub to make it a little stronger. Got the pig tails and the EC5 connector on the powerboard and I heat shrinked all the motor wires so that they can't seperate. I couldn't braid the wires as it made the wires too short with the longer booms. I just bought a used Scarlet and the seller is sending to Red for certification and owner transfer so things are moving along.