Just saw this in the store about the LiPo to 2 Pin "IMPORTANT NOTE - Teradek Bolt uses a reversed polarity 2 pin lemo. DO NOT plug this cable into a Teradek Bolt system." Anyone know if the RedRock Micro Wireless is the same or opposite of the Teradek? I had no idea. Guess I better make sure not to crossup my DTap cables for those. That would also explain why the RRM FF wasn't working with my +1 Module (wrong polarity). It would be really nice if gear powering was all standardized!
Hi Christopher, All the RedRock gear we have uses standard polarity on the 2 pin lemo (Same as the one we sell in the store) I agree on standardization of polarities! What good is a keyed connector if you arbitrarily swap polarities around! Tabb
I'm just glad you guys posted that! This is the first time I've seen anywhere that the Teradek and RRM FF have reverse polarities and they have the same exact power connectors! Scary.
It's funny, I spent so much time racking my brain on how the heck I was going to make a cable to connect the RRFF to a Lipo battery, then I go to make my final Movi payment in the "owner" store, and boom there's a cable already made for me. So nice. Thanks for making those available Tabb. I ended up going with a Paralinx instead of a Teradek, simply because powering the Paralinx is so much simpler, being just a USB input vs lemo or anything like that.
Oh really? Didn't realize that. Well anyway, I like the form factor of the paralinx (basically a pack of gum sized). If you really price out either option with similar specs, they aren't really much different in price. And most of what I've seen and heard, the performance is about the same as well. (i.e. either manufacturer claims zero latency and 300ft range, and neither have been true with either brand, haha)
From the Teradek site: "Second, we designed a new power stage that allows you to power Bolt directly from any professional 14V battery (even when fully charged to 17V) all the way down to a DSLR battery. It even has reverse polarity protection built in." Ours got accidentally plugged in reverse today and nothing bad happened. It also didn't charge or power it, but it didn't blow up.
I have both the RR wireless FF and the Teradek Bolt, and had to label the cables as to which goes to which. I did speak with Teradek about the polarity thing, and they warned me not to use an incorrect-polarity Lemo. They said likely nothing bad would happen, but that in some cases where the wrong polarity was plugged in while video was being piped through it (on it's internal battery power), some glitch could happen that would ruin the Bolt. Not cool, I said. Not cool. Yes, and I also told them Not cool to wire it reversed in the first place. They claimed they were copying Arri. Booooo.
Hey guys, I'm seeking an answer about wiring both the RRM wireless FF and Teradek Bolt from the 2nd Freefly LiPo battery. I understand that the FF has reverse polarity protection and that the Teradek is set at reverse polarity. So does that mean I can Y split the LiPo battery into 2 JST and connect the FF with a JST/Lemo and connect the Teradek with the same JST/Lemo cable but twisted so that the pins are reverse? [don't know how I got to that logic] Essentially, I'm looking for details on the cable specifically made to connect from a JST to the Teradek, that solves the issue of reverse polarity. Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
Hi Leon, I've made cables to power the RR FF as well as the Teradek off the Freefly Lipo. Here's what I did: -Took an Anton Bauer p-tap J box (it splits one female p-tap into four), and unscrewed it open. -Soldered a short section of 18awg wire to the pos and neg posts inside, then reassembled. -Soldered a female JST connector to the end of that wire, in the correct polarity (JST #2 = positive) Now I can simply connect the Freefly Lipo to that and have four powered p-taps. I use it to power both the FF and the Teradek, and that drains the battery at approximately the same rate as as the Movi, so I batt swap at the same time.
If you don't want to use your original p-tap cables that came withe the FF and Tx, and would rather not spend $100 on the J box, you could (and should) make your own custom cable. -Take a sufficient length of good flexible wire (18awg is plenty thick) and put on the female JST connector with the #2 side as positive. -Halfway up the cable, split the cable for 2 inches and strip off a 1/4" section from the positive side. -A half inch from that stripped section, strip off another 1/4" from the negative side. The 2 stripped sections should not be able to contact each other as stripped sections are staggered. -Take another short section of wire, strip the ends a half inch, and tin the ends with solder. Tin the stripped sections from the long JST wire as well. -Solder the short wire to the JST one at the stripped sections, matching the polarity. -Use heat shrink tubing to protect that Y in the cable (I use an inch length down each side, then another 2" length over the top of the entire soldered section). -Solder the two 2-pin Lemo connectors for the FF and the Tx to the ends of the Y, using the polarity below: ---With Teradek, the pin that is adjacent to the red dot is NEGATIVE ---With RedRock, the pin that is adjacent to the red dot is POSITIVE, which is normal. -CLEARLY MARK WHICH LEMO PLUG IS FOR EACH DEVICE. YOU DON'T WANT TO SWITCH THEM. I've heard that the RR does have reverse polarity protection, but Teradek told me over the phone that although they do too, don't trust it as they've had it fail sometimes. Ben
Hi Ben, Thanks for your time to share us your detailed explanation. I am planning to buy the M10 and studying on this forum about various power options. My planned kit is the M10, Teradek Bolt Pro, RT Motion FF with a single motor. the Red Epic will be the camera with UP's and to some extent CP's. Your solution is an excellent one. I want to source the power from the Movi battery to the Bolt Pro and the RTM FF (power tap to Hirose cable supplied). one lead will go into the power tap that you suggested and the other into the Movi to power the movi. Please advise if this is right. Thank you.
Kiran, I wouldn't try to power everything with one Lipo. The amperage draw might be pushing it (I actually have not calculated this; just a hunch). Besides, powering the Movi with one battery and the gack with a 2nd gives me about 3 hours of use, and I wouldn't want to reduce that. In fact, since the Epic with a RedVolt only runs for 30 min before needing a new one, I'm thinking of using a Lipo to power that too for a few extra minutes. Just make sure you are closely monitoring Lipos that aren't powering the Movi. Don't drain them under 14v. I killed a Lipo on my first day with this setup taking it down to 13v. Granted, I think one of the cells was faulty, but still I was out a battery.
Ben: The FF LIpos are rated for 3C continuous discharge, where C is the battery capacity of 2.8 Amp/Hours. So you could pull 3 x 2.8 Amps out of it -- 8.4 Amps. Of course, you pay a price if you do -- to wit, the battery will drain in 20 minutes. That doesn't directly address your point -- which is to consider what the total equipment current draw would be, but I'd be surprised if it was 8.4 Amps. I would invest in one of these for the LiPo http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=18987 If you don't want the beepers (and they are bloody loud), then either (a) unsolder them, or (b) smother the aperture where the sound comes out with gaff tape -- that mutes unbelievably well. The MōVI op will hear it but nobody else will. It also has lights which can also provide endless entertainment for the MōVI op or the AC. Andy.
Hi Ben or anyone else with insight to this next question... Can I power a RRM FF and a Teradek with a movi lipo batter using a JST splitter and 2 JST/2-pin Lemo cables sold at the freefly shop... http://store.freeflysystems.com/collections/movi-accessory/products/freefly-battery-to-2-pin-lemo Knowing the Teradek has reverse polarity, can I merely cut one of the cables and then reconnect using the opposite wires? Thanks! Leon
Leon: As we say in the software business: "That should work...." But I would check the results with a Voltmeter first rather than fry anything. Andy.
Leon, Andy is wise and I am aggressive. I would not hesitate to do exactly what you just said, provided you made sure that when you cut the wires and reversed the polarity that you had good connection and that nothing is shorting out. I also like things to look professional, so I would utilize heat shrink. If you have a modest set of soldering skills and want to save a little money, you could make a custom cable to the exact dimensions you need, without bulky JST splitters and whatnot. Buy two of the right 2-pin Lemo connectors (about $40 each) and some good wire at Markertek or wherever, and some JST fittings.