Apologies for the bad iPhone pic, but it should be enough to give you an idea of soldering. I'll post lab pics once we receive the report.
Yes it appears those leads are supposed to provide voltage to the FC, directly off the Power Hungry Distribution Board. The soldering certainly raised a few eyebrows at the lab. What do you guys think?
The part I'm highlighting in green is the most concerning as a cold solder joint. The red joint is fine its the black one that's very concerning. The wires also don't appear to be twisted together which can cause other issues.
The lower left solder joint has an almost-crystalline structure and surface curl-back suggesting the solder blob was not hot enough to properly fuse with the left brown wire. This could be caused by poor soldering technique or failure to use a large enough iron. Either way, that granular appearance suggests a dry joint because the solder blob and the solder on the tinned wire did not fuse together. Also, as Dave says, the fact that the individual wire strands were not twisted together suggests that the wires may not have been properly tinned before the soldering was attempted. All of the other solder joints in this image look deeply suspect (and that's British Understatement) -- the top left hand one also reveals lack of proper solder fusion -- you can see the shape of the wire strands in the top surface of the solder. The top right joint has a granular/crystalline structure visible just to the left of the wire that I associate with a dry joint/lack of proper fusion. All in all, this appears to be one of the more egregiously bad soldering jobs I have seen in a long time. I've only seen worse when I was ten years old and trying to build an FM radio. Andrew: if there's enough of the copter to salvage, please have someone check all the the solder joints, re-doing them as necessary. You might also want to find out who did this work and take their soldering iron away from them until they have watched the numerous YouTube videos on how to solder. The above is just my opinion. I could be wrong. Andy.
Also done 2.00a, and are back to .90j. Much more stable and the AH/PH works better. We do not fly defaults, always tweek the best for our 8's. With .90j we have perfect PH and AH, CH, freefly etc!
Gary, I posted what I used for the new firmware early on in this thread while it was still in the beta form here http://forum.freeflysystems.com/ind...a-0-91-as-of-14-06-2013.1674/page-2#post-2139 For 90J all my settings are all stock except GPS gain is 90% and Gyro D is 15. GPS PID and the rest of the settings in 90J are bone stock.
Dave, you might be better off posting in this forum (which is generally English-only): http://forum.mikrokopter.de/forum-17.html
FYI, got a new MK power distro board soldered up and did a checkout ride with a full payload and she flew nicely. Was battling 15-20MPH winds, too. But Position Hold and Altitude Hold did well, with no significant wobbling, even in that wind. I had 7-9 sats, and it felt stable, despite the wind. This is with the 2.0a firmware and the upgraded ACC. I do have a knocking motor and some anomalous current figures, so I have to investigate, but I suspect my motors are a little out of vertical, and 1 or 2 motors may need bearings. But all that aside, she's flying true.
And having looked at the MK wiki I just don't see any large numbers of folks complaining about 2.0. I've only seen may 5-6 posts. Could be missing something but I did multiple searches.
Steve: 1. Did you set Compass Effect to 0 or at the default of 64? 2. Were you wearing your tinfoil hat or codpiece? Andy.
Yes and yes (never leave home without it...can't be too careful these days). BTW, here's a video of the full flight. PH was engaged at about 3:45 or so, and at 4:20 you can see how windy it was! :-o
I recognize The Trees Of Copter Repose! So 2.00 with Compass Effect = 0 seems to be OK, it sounds like. Andy.
Just FYI: There were two different people on this board that tried to zero out the compass effect after it was recommended to try and reported that it caused yawing issues. Heres a link to one of them. http://forum.freeflysystems.com/index.php?threads/position-hold-tuning-mk-v2-0.2137/ I have not had any time what so ever to load 2.0 back up and play with it as I have had several jobs that I just couldn't afford to chance it. I spent at least 4 hours trying different PID, ACC, and GPS gain settings and the recommended settings seemed to be the best. Sometimes it seemed like it was ok on short flights. Other times it seemed really off with major drifting. One time it was so bad that in GPS mode I couldn't go forward straight to save my life. Normally I have found that the copter will fly straighter in PH when I need absolute spot on "very slow" delicate shots. With 2.0 It had a plus or minus variance of about 50 to 100 feet left to right when I was trying to fly straight in PH. IN golf courses I fly straighter in PH mode when I have long distances that I have to fly straight. With 2.0 there was no way possible that I could even attempt to do this. This of course was before it was recommended to change the compass effect setting.