I have looked at some of the shots on different forums. I am looking for a good template or recipe for editing photos. Unfortunately I found a million different ways with a million different opinions on how to edit and what to edit. For an odd reason the video side seems much easier to do and can see it in my head easy. The photo side I have not got down. I read about doing HDR photography. I had a discussion with the Harolds guy for some time. We talked about the in camera in some scenarios is not as good. He questioned if we had good enough gps in wind and what not to take the 3-5 image sample and to get a good lineup without ghosting etc especially on close shots in the scene. Since I have not done this I am looking for experienced answers on this. My initial thought was to not do any multiple pictures to combine later, nor do any HDR settings in camera and just do one image and do adjustments to that picture alone. The problem with just editing one picture with different software is since I am new with adobe, and I have a side software 'Fusion' is that I am probably many others do not know what looks good, and what looks like crap editing job. Like many I am looking for a streamlined setup and solution to know what is done is done correct and looks professional. Any help is appreciated. Thanks -Cody
Cody if you had a really fast 'motor drive' on your camera then taking a 3 shot bracket would probably work. But I am thinking a camera that can shoot 10 frames per second or greater. You can get great results with a single frame using photo tools like Adobe PhotoShop or some of the add on's like On1 or Topaz Labs tools. Lots of other choices out there but those are a couple that I have used. I do almost all of my photos with a 3 shot (+/- .7 stops) handheld. Gives me choices in post. If you shoot brackets one of the most popular pieces of software for that is Photomatix Pro. Probably the easiest and premier HDR program out there.
The Canon 7D Mark III does 10 frames a second, 20 megapixels each. You can also use a slower frame rate and use Photoshop to have one image of the HDR set on different layers and then reduce the opacity of the top layer to align the other images precisely. You may have to crop some of the edges if the image has moved. Andy.
Hi, Cody I have done extensive experiments with my 5D Mark III and my Alta/MōVI combination Here's one example of a recent composite I did. The Alta/MōVI can definitely produce some stellar results, providing you know how to post-process the images. The image above was made from 15 CR2 raw files from my 5D Mark III. I set the camera to shoot a sequence of 3 images every time I tripped the shutter, at +2, -2, and 0EV using the camera's exposure bracketing. Then I slightly rotated the MōVI, and repeated that sequence. The camera was set to manual exposure and manual focus. Once on the ground, I used the Aurora Pro HDR software (by far the best out there right now) using automatic alignment and de-ghosting to produce 5 HDR frames with matching settings to my liking. Then I exported the results as 5 TIFF files. I then brought those into Lightroom and used the new Camera RAW Merge To Panorama tool, which is nothing short of magic, especially with the Perspective Warp function. There you go. Maybe 10 minutes tops. And the resulting file is IMHO a 60 megapixel piece of art. Hope that helps! Steve
Excellent info all! My camera is just the alpha 6000. While its not a full frame its very close behind a full frame at 24.3meg at 11 fps. I will try do a .7 bracket at 3 and if it will do 5 shots I will try that. Id like to update cameras, but am wanting to just get in the air with what I have, learn and grow from there. certainly looking into a better camera, but there is no reason to believe good results cannot be done with this. I have been hovering around 1/500 to 1/650 shutter speed. I am in hope the aperture will not be sacrificed to much keeping a higher shutter so field of view is affected. The other thing I found is while I like the Alpha they use a concept of 'pain' to use ARW (Aka sony's version of a raw) that I must find a program that deals with this or a converter. I know the A7 S ii guys must have some ideas. -Cody
So 6FPS raw is probablly not going to fly in Raw. Steve, in your photo I see you shot a moving pic. In ideal situations of shooting a mountain range or something not moving I could see pano's being much easier. Items and people moving in a scene could add complexity and ghosting correct? How did you shoot a moving water shot? To do 5 frames and align the waves so you dont have this odd misalignment how did one work through that? I can see shooting say the beach scene of this and merge it with the moving wave picture to reduce problems, but you had 5 pics. -Cody
The Aurora Pro HDR software does a good job of de-ghosting. Panoramas are harder. Requires some manual labor sometimes. Sometimes you get lucky with things like waves. Photoshop's Camera Raw pano stitcher is pretty smart, too. It really depends on the scene. Like I said, it has a little to do with luck. The 5D Mark III in Live View barely does 1fps. The frame rate doesn't matter. And if you have Lightroom (and you should ) raw file support for the A6000 is not a problem.
I've shot a lot of panos with waves in them -- and if all else fails, "Photoslop!" Andy ---------- Forensic Software & sUAV, sRPA, Drone Analyst : Photographer : Videographer : Pilot (Portland, Oregon, USA) : Trees = 2, Ground = 1 Props = 11.
Check this simple Photo to HDR Tutorial ... https://www.udemy.com/easy-photo-enhancement/ Its not too long just 30 mins and see the results. Sample photos also provided to practice.
Hassan welcome to the forums. Would you be kind enough to change your user name to your real first name and last name, please? The reasons for this (and how to do it) are explained here: http://forum.freeflysystems.com/index.php?threads/real-names.497/.
Do you mean that Aurora HDR has some issues with processing panoramas? I'm thinking about buying this software so disadvantages are important for me to know.
Looks like you have already got some some good answers. Nevertheless, if you still need some good guides here is the list of several youtube channels containing photoshop tutorials http://fixthephoto.com/blog/retouch-tips/best-photoshop-tutorials-on-youtube.html I have watched most of them when was an amateur too. Good luck
Not only photoshop can help you, i also use photoshop online . Perfect for colour correction, huge spector of filters and oportunity for skin retouching
Photo editing is an art and you need proper tools to perform your task like photo viewer. This small tool has all features of a expensive graphic software. Photoviewerpro is a Powerful image editing tools We can basic editing like Resize/resample, rotate/flip, crop, sharpen/blur, adjust lighting/colors/curves/levels etc.
There are many software for image editing but photoviewerpro software is one of my favorite software’s. I always recommend this program to my students. It has good interface have good functions and Its user friendly.
Photoshop can be used to combine Exposure bracketed images to generate HDR. Another good option is Aurora HDR. It is easy to use. You can have a look at some Aurora HDR Before/After Images with review.